YTUVI · Brief

Стартовый бриф нового канала. 5 тем по камням · референсы Натальи · Zoom-встреча 2026-04-21.
Транскрибация готова
Сгенерирован · public build
2026-05-07 23:32

📎 Материалы сезона 1

Все исходники, видео-архив и сводная таблица — три точки входа.

YTUVI01 Рубин

Рубин как красный корунд. Глубоко по одному камню: Бирма/Мозамбик, pigeon blood, insider-рынок, Harry Winston.

Полный idea-файл (концепт, hook, b-roll, references)

Корунд · Рубин

Concept

Первый выпуск новой сезонной формулы: один камень в эфире — идём максимально глубоко. Корунд как минерал (Al₂O₃) + красный окрашиватель Cr = рубин. Никаких «заодно сапфиров» — только рубин и его семейство легенд, источников, рынка. Сапфиры уходят в отдельный выпуск (YTUVI-002).

Structure (канальная формула)

1. Hook — «Камень, за который воины зашивали себя под кожу. И один из которых сейчас стоит больше, чем квартира в Дубае.»

2. Geology — Al₂O₃ + Cr, как зарождается, три эпохи корундов (5 / 100 / 500 млн лет — из разговора с Натальей).

3. Свойства — твёрдость 9, плеохроизм, шелк/рутил, звёздчатые рубины (отдельный тизер на будущее видео про кабошоны).

4. Как определяют месторождение — Бирма (Mogok, закрыта, премия), Мозамбик (современная массовка), Таиланд/Вьетнам (самые дешёвые корунды — «меньше всего лет»).

5. Облагораживание — нагрев (ок), glass-filling (единственное, что лаборатории хейтят, но формально всё ещё рубин).

6. Рынок / аукционы — insider-рынок Бирмы: почему дилеры скупают рубины обратно в Бирму, как это поднимает цены на мозамбикские и на красную шпинель. Christie's/Sotheby's/Phillips — топ-лоты, price index.

7. Как читать сертификат — Pigeon Blood vs Crimson Red (Gübelin), Vibrant, Flower Royal (для сапфиров — тизер 002-го).

8. Harry Winston / Cartier case — гретые рубины в массе, негретые «булыжники» в high-jewellery.

9. Вынос — что спрашивать у ювелира, как проверять сертификат.

Key Points

  • Рубин = только красный корунд. Любой другой цвет = сапфир.
  • Бирма (Mogok) и Кашмир — закрытые месторождения. Из-за этого старые бирманские рубины ценятся в разы выше.
  • Insider-рынок: в Бирме capital controls → дилеры скупают свои же рубины обратно из Гонконга/Бангкока.
  • Glass-filled — единственный вид облагораживания, который лаборатории хейтят. Но камень всё ещё считается «натуральным».
  • Pigeon Blood — маркетинговое «золото» на сертификате. Crimson Red (Gübelin) — для камней без флуоресценции.
  • Harry Winston продаёт гретые рубины в массовке, но не в high-jewellery. Это стандарт рынка.

Reference quotes from kickoff

> [02:01 Наталья] «Бирманские воины зашивали себе рубины под кожу, потому что верили, что рубин даёт энергию, силу. Если происходило заражение — это значит, что рубин отвергал организм, организм был недостоин.»

> [03:17 Наталья] «Почему сейчас бирманские рубины продолжают расти в цене — в Бирме беспорядки, им политически запретили выводить капитал. Дилеры выкупают камни обратно и везут в Бирму. Берманские скупили — мозамбикские пошли следом. Все рубины скупили — красная шпинель пошла следом.»

> [06:15 Наталья] «Гарри Винстон спокойно продаёт украшения с гретыми камнями. Но с маленькими. А в хайджуэрик, где булыжники по миллиону, — только негретые.»

Hook Ideas

  • «Камень, за который воины зашивали себя под кожу.»
  • «Почему цена бирманского рубина зависит от военного конфликта, а не от качества.»
  • «Pigeon blood vs Crimson Red — что на самом деле написано на твоём сертификате.»

B-Roll / Visuals

  • Макро: бирманский рубин, мозамбикский рубин, glass-filled — сравнение
  • Анимация Al₂O₃ решётки с замещением Cr
  • Карта: Mogok, Mozambique, Таиланд, Вьетнам
  • Страница GRS/Gübelin-сертификата, подсветить поля Origin / Treatment / Pigeon Blood
  • Архивные фото Sunrise Ruby / Harry Winston high-jewellery

Открытые вопросы / research

  • Достать у Натальи index цен, которые она смотрит (Sotheby's / Christie's / Phillips)
  • Подтвердить доступ к loose-камням для макро (Наталья подтвердила — есть в наличии)
  • Запрос у Gübelin комментария про Crimson Red (долгосрочная заявка)

References

  • GRS https://www.gemresearch.ch/
  • Gübelin Gem Lab — Crimson Red terminology
  • Harry Winston / Cartier — high-jewellery policy по обработке

💬 Тезисы из встречи

2:01 · Наталья«Туда точно можно будет рассказать какие -нибудь легенды.»
3:17 · Наталья«Почему сейчас берманские рубины, это вот чисто инсайдерская информация с рынка, но мне кажется, она может быть интересна.»
5:30 · Наталья«когда они glass -filled, там получается так, что очень много глаз, стекла, это вот куча камушков рубиновых, они прям заливаются стеклом, и…»
18:08 · Наталья«это тогда вовнутрь этого всего можно было бы попрятать.»
29:18 · Наталья«лабораторий вот так вот чтобы например я конечно понимаю что я не смогу там например рубины и я такая 1 8 сердцов разных лабораторий на…»

📎 Материалы по выпуску

📝 Сценарий v0.1 (Google Doc)Двухколоночный сценарий «озвучка / визуал», 350 строк, 8 блоков. Источник правды для сценариста.📄 Структурированный транскрипт — Анастасия Атрашкевич (геммология + метафизика)Интервью 2026-05-06 · 57 мин · 245 сегментов · 12 блоков, 210 цитат с тайм-кодами + 49 комментариев.📄 Структурированный транскрипт — Юля (история + легенды + рынок)Интервью 2026-05-07 · 51 мин · 260 сегментов · 12 блоков. Закрывает GAP «Вперёд в прошлое». Юля даёт правильное определение Pigeon Blood и маркировку F/C/H/Be на бирках.🎥 Zoom-видео интервью с Атрашкевич (Google Drive)Запись встречи 2026-05-06.🎥 Zoom-видео интервью с Юлей (Google Drive)Запись встречи 2026-05-07.📄 «О рубине легенды и мифы» — текстовый источник (Юля)40 KB готового текста: этимология, индийские/бирманские/греческие легенды, Тимур, Нерон, Иван Грозный, Pigeon Blood history, месторождения, знаменитости.🔗 ТОП-5 самых дорогих рубинов (Дзен)Юля прислала. lumerie.ru. Полезно для блока «знаменитые камни».🔗 Самые знаменитые рубины мира (Livemaster)Юля прислала.🔗 Подходы лабораторий к указанию облагораживания (Гемцентр МГУ)Юля прислала. Главный научный источник по теме облагораживания на русском.👑 Королевские украшения с рубинами (Marie Claire)Юля прислала. От тиары Елизаветы II до проклятого кольца Сары Йоркской.⭐ Топ-10 выходов актрис в рубинах (Milana Silver)Юля прислала. Рубиновые украшения звёзд на ковровых дорожках.⛏️ Месторождения рубинов (Гемс СПб)Юля прислала.📜 Рубин — Федеральная пробирная палата (probpalata.gov.ru)Юля прислала. Официальный источник РФ по геммологическим стандартам — для legal-формулировок в скрипте.🗺️ Карта месторождений рубинов мира (визуал от Юли)Источник: Shigley J. & all (2010), GEMS & GEMOLOGY Vol. 46 No. 3. Готовый визуал для блока «Поле битвы / Месторождения».🎨 Цветовая шкала рубинов — 8 категорий (Gem Lovers)От Dark Red до Pinkish Red. Готовая инфографика для блока «Цвет и эталон».📋 Все материалы Юли (полный список)articles_links.md — все ссылки, файлы, видео в одном месте.📚 Анализ ресурсов: что использовать и гдеРазбор 10 источников Юли по блокам сценария + 10 фактов, которые она НЕ упомянула в интервью, но есть в её материалах (бомба про тиару Елизаветы II с 96 рубинами, Памирское «Снежное», Глаз дьявола, и др.).

Референс-видео по теме

Ruby -King Of The Gemstones? What makes Ruby a Great Gem?- Ruby buyers guide /Tips and Advice (2020)
Your Average Jeweler · 18:57 · 251 947 views
Наталья: «вот это, пожалуй, самое большое подробное про рубин, что я нашла пока»
Transcript (547 lines) — клик по тайм-коду открывает YouTube на нужной секунде
0:05hey everybody it's your
0:06average jeweler again and we're back
0:09talking about
0:10king of the gemstones no literally
0:13they're they call it king of the
0:15gemstones in sanskrit
0:17it actually translates to king of the
0:20gemstones
0:22we're gonna have to talk about it
0:31so for those of you that are new here
0:34welcome
0:35this is where we try and learn about
0:36gemstones and jewelry and
0:39some of the good questions that people
0:40ask but today we are literally talking
0:42about a gemstone
0:43that most people do know about and that
0:46is ruby
0:48even though most people know about it
0:50there are a lot of really interesting
0:52things about ruby that
0:53people don't know you hopefully know
0:56that ruby is red
0:58but outside of that there's a lot of
1:00interesting facts
1:02and i've spent some time trying to
1:03gather some things together
1:05some things of course from experience
1:06other things just by
1:08trying to look around and and see what
1:10else there is about ruby and there is a
1:12lot
1:13now if you haven't subscribed to the
1:15channel please subscribe below
1:17click the little notification bell so
1:19you actually see things
1:21and we are still planning on doing a lot
1:23of different videos moving forward i
1:25have some great ideas for the future
1:27so please subscribe so you actually see
1:29those when they do come out
1:30but today ruby now if you've watched
1:34some of my other videos
1:36hopefully you've seen and heard that
1:37ruby is actually the mineral corundum
1:40and what makes that interesting and
1:41unique is it is the same mineral
1:44as sapphire however ruby is specifically
1:48the red designation
1:50now how does it get the red well without
1:53any trace elements
1:54other things outside of its chemical
1:56structure which its chemical structure
1:58is an aluminum oxide
1:59but outside of that other elements can
2:02creep in there and they'll affect the
2:04color
2:05without those elements you have a clear
2:06gemstone when you add in
2:09things like chromium you end up with a
2:12red color
2:13now there are other elements that can
2:15affect this for instance
2:17like iron iron many times will get into
2:20things like
2:20ruby and you get your darker varieties
2:23of ruby
2:24when you add in iron but the bottom line
2:27you add in a percent of chromium and you
2:30end up with a very pretty
2:32ruby now if there's less chromium you
2:34actually have
2:36what gets into pink sapphire now one of
2:38the biggest
2:39controversies in the the whole ruby
2:42conversation has to do with when
2:44is it a pink sapphire and when does it
2:46become a ruby
2:48because as soon as somebody can call it
2:50a ruby
2:51it's basically more valuable however
2:55when you're talking about color there's
2:57a level of subjectivity
2:59now sometimes you're looking at a hot
3:01pink stone and it's pretty obvious
3:03it's pink but there is a point when pink
3:06breaks into red and that's one of the
3:08most difficult things to decide
3:09now if you were in some of the countries
3:12where these stones come from
3:14they will many times be selling pink
3:16sapphires as
3:17ruby partly because that's the cultural
3:20norm
3:20and partly because they believe they can
3:22get more money by doing so
3:24but at the end of the day you need to
3:26see it for yourself
3:28see that it's red and make your own
3:30determination in the u.s
3:32we don't have as much of a problem but
3:34occasionally you do see what i would
3:36call a pink
3:37sapphire being sold as a ruby something
3:40to be aware of
3:41now one other difference that ruby has
3:44from sapphire is that they have
3:46different crystal habits
3:48and that means that when they grow they
3:50naturally grow into different shapes
3:53when you look at a sapphire you have
3:55what we often call a bipyramidal shape
3:58when you look at a ruby you usually have
4:01a much more tabular shape
4:03now this tabular habit doesn't affect a
4:06lot of things but what it does show
4:08itself in
4:09is the final product you'll notice that
4:11rubies have a tendency to be very
4:13shallow
4:14when they're cut and that is because of
4:17how they grow
4:18rubies grow in a tabular form so they
4:21end up being very shallow when they're
4:23finished
4:24the practical through of this
4:28is that they have what we call windowing
4:30meaning meaning you can almost
4:31see through them at times it doesn't
4:34affect every single ruby the same but it
4:36is something to watch out for
4:38because it affects how pretty it looks
4:40and therefore
4:41it affects the value but it's just an
4:43interesting thing to note
4:45because a lot of people will notice that
4:47and maybe not make the connection that
4:49it goes
4:49all the way back to the crystal
4:51structure so gemologists
4:53will often call ruby the rock star
4:56of the gem world so again king of the
4:58gems rockstar the gem world
5:00a lot of it has to do with people have
5:02loved red for
5:04ever and that's a big part however
5:07corundum as a mineral is of course very
5:10tough
5:11and very hard it has a hardness of about
5:13a nine
5:14i shouldn't say about it's actually the
5:16mineral they use to designate nine so it
5:18is supposed to be nine
5:20but there are variances that they need
5:22to account for
5:23but nine gives you a very hard gemstone
5:26that's very
5:26practical it's hard enough for most
5:28everyday wear type rings
5:30it's not going to be as hard or as tough
5:33as diamond however
5:35it's a very good stone when you're
5:37trying to look for something practical
5:39one more quick note it is the birthstone
5:41for july
5:42and so those of you that are trying to
5:44figure out birthstones you can slot in
5:46ruby into july
5:48another thing i wanted to talk about is
5:50just generally speaking to where it
5:52falls in the value spectrum
5:54as you might guess from some of my
5:56previous statements in this video
5:58it can carry one of the highest price
6:01price tags
6:02of any gemstone and per carat it often
6:06does have the highest price tag
6:09when you compare it to other gemstones
6:11so it's incredibly valuable
6:13but as i've talked about in my other
6:15videos you have to consider its
6:17characteristics specific to that stone
6:20because not every ruby is the most
6:24valuable
6:24but it can be and that's an important
6:27distinction
6:28something else that's really interesting
6:29about ruby is that it can be a
6:31fluorescent gemstone
6:33and while fluorescence is negatively
6:36looked at
6:37in the clear stone community like
6:39diamonds fluorescence in something like
6:41a ruby almost makes it look like it's a
6:43glowing red
6:44it's really fascinating not all rubies
6:47fluoresce that way
6:49i have heard people of saying that's how
6:50you can test rubies
6:52it's really not definitive but rubies
6:54can fluoresce
6:55and it can be beautiful it has to do
6:57again with the chromium
6:59but it also has to do with not having
7:02some of the other impurities
7:04and rubies can grow within different
7:06host rocks
7:07you have some rubies growing in marble
7:10which are usually the nicer more
7:12valuable ones and then you have your
7:13basalt
7:14rubies now the basalt rubies will often
7:18times
7:18inherently have more iron in them and
7:21make them a lot
7:22darker darker to the point where they're
7:24less attractive
7:25marble rubies usually have fewer
7:28impurities
7:29that end up going into the crystal so
7:31you end up with more of a just
7:33pure chromium and that oftentimes makes
7:36for the most beautiful
7:38stones now rubies are a significant
7:41gemstone
7:42there's no denying that going all the
7:43way back to being mentioned
7:45four times in the bible and being
7:47revered by many cultures
7:49all the way through into the middle ages
7:51having a very high price and being
7:53associated with
7:54some lore stories but
7:58there are some connections with ruby
8:01that again
8:02are correct but also may be
8:05misunderstood
8:06one of those has to do with the best
8:09rubies in the world
8:10coming from myanmar or what
8:13a lot of people still refer to as burma
8:17you may have heard a reference to
8:18burmese rubies
8:20or sometimes people even talk about
8:22pigeon blood rubies
8:25pigeon blood rubies refer to a very
8:27specific strong
8:28color of ruby like something like
8:31imperial jade it gets
8:33misused and abused constantly people
8:36thinking they have a more valuable ruby
8:38than they do and not using that
8:40word appropriately because it really
8:42should re refer to a very small
8:44percentage of the nicest rubies in the
8:46whole world
8:48but going back to that whole
8:50conversation of burmese rubies
8:52something that's often misunderstood is
8:54that while
8:56some of the nicest rubies throughout
8:58history have
8:59come from that region a lot of very
9:02inexpensive rubies
9:04have also come from that region because
9:07within that country of burma or what we
9:09now call myanmar
9:11you have different distinct minds
9:14and some of them like the mogak mind i'm
9:17sure i butchered that pronunciation
9:19you have a lot of marble bearing
9:23ruby and in the other you have more of
9:27that basalt based
9:28as we mentioned before so when someone
9:31says a
9:31burmese ruby just like when someone says
9:35ruby it is not inherently valuable or
9:38nice
9:39so again every gemstone should be looked
9:41at on its own merits
9:43but some of the nicest gemstones have
9:46come
9:47from that region other places where
9:50rubies have been found
9:52it's a long list but i'll name a few of
9:54the more popular and common ones
9:56you have thailand you have australia you
9:59have
9:59brazil you have cambodia as well as
10:02some other african countries tanzania
10:05for instance
10:07it's it's not a gemstone that has been
10:10relegated to a very small region
10:12like some however depending on that
10:16region
10:17depending on the host rock you will get
10:19varying qualities of the stone
10:22some of them may be requiring more
10:24treatment to make them attractive
10:26than others and that maybe brings me to
10:29biggest point when watching out for
10:31value
10:32i mention it in all my videos treatments
10:36can and do dramatically affect the value
10:39of a gemstone
10:40now they can also affect how attractive
10:43it is
10:44but one of the biggest problems with
10:47treatments lies in their stability
10:49and while heat treatment is generally
10:52accepted
10:53throughout the industry not every
10:56treatment is
10:57heat treatment is accepted because it
10:59can be done naturally in the earth
11:01in fact most stones have already been
11:04heated in the earth in some way
11:06so having some kind of a controlled heat
11:08treatment
11:09where you end up with a stable stone
11:12is fine some of the less acceptable ones
11:15have to do with when you've introduced
11:17an entirely new element like diffusion
11:19treating
11:20where they are technically heating it up
11:22but they're heating it up to a point
11:23where another element is actually
11:25soaking into the gemstone
11:28this is a problem for a few reasons i'm
11:30sure you can imagine
11:31but it's not always stable and sometimes
11:33it's very close to the surface of the
11:35stone
11:35like in sapphires it's not very deep
11:38penetrating so as soon as the stone is
11:40polished down a bit
11:42you end up losing a lot of that color
11:44but maybe the most detrimental thing
11:46with rubies has to do with lead glass
11:49filling
11:50and a lot of people don't realize how
11:52widespread this
11:53is it's better than it used to be
11:56several years ago
11:57uh we're talking probably around 2010
12:00maybe
12:02you were seeing a lot of a lot of lead
12:04glass rubies
12:06what does that mean it means they were
12:08taking very low
12:09quality ruby or sometimes even just
12:12corundum that had a little bit of red to
12:15and they were putting lead glass into it
12:19which is a relatively easy treatment for
12:21them to do again they're heating it up
12:22to the point where the glass flows into
12:24the little fissures and cracks
12:26and it gives it the appearance of being
12:28a cleaner gemstone than it really is
12:31in these cases sometimes they're doing
12:32it with dyed glass
12:34or they're dyeing the stone in some way
12:36all of this goes back
12:38to they're taking a very inexpensive
12:41very common stone
12:44it's not nearly as rare and they're
12:47trying to make it pretty
12:49that's fine except when you get into all
12:52the problems with disclosing this and
12:54being able to identify it
12:56the internet has been plastered with
12:59light glass rubies
13:00a lot of jewelers are very cautious
13:02about who they buy rubies from
13:04if they sell them at all and many people
13:08will even demand a lab report
13:10if they're buying a decent ruby just to
13:12make sure that this is not a problem
13:14because it can be difficult to identify
13:16in some cases
13:17ones that are heavily treated we're
13:19talking like 70
13:21of the stone is basically glass those
13:23are a little bit easier to look at under
13:25loop and
13:25and determine but some of them were
13:27maybe they've they've
13:29taken 20 to 30 percent of the stone
13:31where it's glass
13:33those can be difficult to see and
13:37those you will probably want a lab
13:38report if you're investing in a nicer
13:40stone
13:41rep reputable jewelers tend to watch out
13:44for who they get these from
13:45but i've spent a lot of time talking
13:47about it because it is a real issue and
13:49a lot of people think they end up with
13:51these
13:51really valuable rubies and they can't
13:55understand why they only had to pay five
13:56dollars for their ruby and someone paid
13:585000 for theirs
13:59there's always a reason i just wanted to
14:03emphasize that that has been a real
14:05problem and it's something that doesn't
14:06get talked about
14:08or identified nearly enough disclosure
14:11especially through a lot of online
14:13retailers
14:14if they're only selling online through
14:17certain websites you probably know what
14:18i'm talking about
14:20there's a good chance they're not
14:21disclosing everything and if it's a very
14:24inexpensive ruby
14:25that's probably a reason why so at the
14:28end of the day
14:29what things actually affect the value of
14:31a ruby maybe you're thinking about
14:33buying one
14:34maybe you're just curious maybe you
14:36already bought one and
14:38you're starting to question some things
14:40but you have
14:41treatments obviously that we just talked
14:43about you have the four c's
14:45just like you do in diamond how well
14:47it's cut we talked about windowing
14:49and even if you want something that has
14:51a little more brilliance
14:53the general cut of the stone is
14:55important obviously the carat weight the
14:57size of the stone
14:58that's going to make a big difference
15:00and then the clarity is also something
15:03clarity is not looked at the same as it
15:05is in diamonds
15:06but generally speaking the question
15:08you're asking are
15:11what are the eye visible inclusions and
15:13how easily can you see them
15:15that's really what you want to do maybe
15:17you want to look at it under a loop
15:19you could even look at it under a
15:20microscope but because it's not
15:22transparent
15:24you're not as concerned as you would be
15:26with something like a diamond but you do
15:28want to
15:28talk about clarity because heavy
15:31inclusions can affect the durability
15:33and then also heavy inclusions can be
15:36distracting and they can take away from
15:37the beauty or they can cause
15:39other coloring and so you have that
15:42and then just like diamonds color is
15:44important but in a very different way
15:47color is actually important because you
15:49want a nice saturation you want a nice
15:52color you want a nice hue but you don't
15:54want it too dark you don't want it too
15:56light
15:57and you do see things like zoning
16:00where you have a high saturation of
16:02color in one part
16:03and yet it's very light in another this
16:06is a little bit more common in sapphire
16:08than it is in ruby
16:09but it is something to watch out for if
16:11you're trying to find a nice stone
16:13again if all you're doing is price
16:16shopping
16:16find the cheapest stone but if you're
16:18concerned about some of these things you
16:20have to know what questions to ask
16:22and i do want to give you a couple other
16:24buying tips
16:26so first of all you've heard me say this
16:28a lot try and find a jeweler that you
16:29can trust
16:31jewelers have a lot of their reputation
16:34based off of trust
16:35and while maybe at times you can get a
16:38better deal online
16:39you don't always know what you're
16:40getting and you don't always know who
16:41you're dealing with
16:43and they're not as reliant on trust
16:46as someone who is standing in front of
16:50yes you can rate things but even that
16:53becomes very sketchy at times
16:56amazon right now has had difficulty
16:58trying to control fake reviews so
17:01you can't totally rely on that as being
17:04your
17:05backdrop for trusting the review system
17:08but i would recommend finding a jeweler
17:10that you can trust
17:12also as i mentioned in this video don't
17:14confuse origin
17:16with quality that does happen
17:20some people don't care at all where it
17:21comes from they just want a pretty stone
17:24just because it comes from a certain
17:26place like burma
17:28does not mean that it's a better stone
17:31some people may want that provenance but
17:33don't confuse those things
17:35also make sure to ask about treatments
17:38unless otherwise stated you can assume
17:40that it's heat treated
17:41that's just how it is if it's not heat
17:44treated then it actually has a higher
17:46premium without heat treatment we just
17:48would not have hardly any
17:50pretty rubies lastly if you're concerned
17:55ask for a lab report try and get a stone
17:57that has a lab report
17:59particularly from a good reputable lab
18:03something like gia you've heard me
18:04mention ags
18:06is another one these are places that
18:08should put an
18:10unbiased statement
18:13as to whether this has been treated or
18:15how it's been treated
18:17and really that's one of the biggest
18:18things when it comes to determining
18:20value outside of that subjective
18:22color matter as always i hope you
18:26learned something i hope you'll share it
18:27with
18:28me below and i do again
18:31plan on putting out some new videos and
18:33i have what i think are some
18:35fun questions we're going to be
18:36answering in the future so again if you
18:38haven't subscribed
18:39please subscribe below hit the
18:40notification button and
18:42keep coming back so we can keep learning
18:54together
Three Precious Gems: Rubies, Emeralds, Sapphires
JTV · 46:47 · 1 329 228 views
Наталья: «А вот тут JTV — это прямо Ювелирочка в США (большой телемагазин)»
Transcript (1009 lines) — клик по тайм-коду открывает YouTube на нужной секунде
0:04rubies sapphires and emeralds they are
0:08the Holy Trinity of the most precious
0:09colored gemstones on earth the radiant
0:12hues of red green and blue are the
0:15finest Mother Nature has to offer for
0:17thousands of years pharaohs and
0:19Emperor's kings and queens have all
0:21coveted these beautiful lustrous gems
0:24the royalty the Maharajah's in India the
0:27royal families in England these people
0:29have always collected the gemstones
0:31because it was not just a sign of wealth
0:33they considered it a sign of power these
0:36three gemstones are true miracles of
0:38nature and are rarer even than diamonds
0:40they're timeless beauty inspires love
0:43passion and loyalty and with proper care
0:46their durability ensures that they can
0:49be handed down from generation to
0:51generation join us as we travel to
0:53remote mining towns visit the world's
0:56finest gem cutters and discover the
0:58secret world of these three precious
1:01gems
1:31throughout the ages rubies sapphires and
1:35emeralds have been coveted by mankind
1:37along with diamonds they are the
1:40ultimate symbols of wealth power and
1:42prestige during the Middle Ages they
1:45were known as the cardinal gems for
1:47their extensive use in the clergies most
1:49precious ceremonial objects crucifixes
1:52rings and amulets all bore these gems as
1:55symbols of virtue and piety over the
1:58centuries the big stones are probably
2:01the emerald ruby sapphire and diamond
2:03mostly its due to their the fact that
2:06they come out of the earth or a natural
2:08product and and they possess a certain
2:12amount of beauty rubies sapphires and
2:15emeralds are highly valued for three
2:17reasons one they are durable they are
2:21among the hardest substances found on
2:23earth - they are rare found in such
2:27limited amounts that throughout history
2:29only the very wealthy have been able to
2:31afford them and three they are beautiful
2:35the most notable trait of any gemstone
2:37is its color and no color is as vibrant
2:41or as vivid as the red hue that emanates
2:44from a ruby like flames from a fire
2:46rubies are considered to be by some to
2:51be the most valuable gem of all and it's
2:57probably because it is so rare and it is
3:03the such a striking color for much of
3:07recorded history rubies were valued more
3:10highly than diamonds they look to the
3:14heavens there and they saw the Sun and
3:16they attributed a ruby to the Sun and in
3:19India ruby is called Raja Raja the king
3:21of gems rubies were also thought to help
3:24with a range of physical ailments Ruby
3:27for example is has been associated with
3:29blood for
3:31thousands of years redstone's color
3:34blood were very often connected to
3:36therapeutic beliefs and and cures for
3:40various things early civilizations
3:43believe the stones would restore youth
3:44and vitality have rubbed on the skin and
3:47if worn into battle as some brave
3:49warriors did they were thought to bestow
3:52invulnerability once rubies were
3:55introduced to Europe in the early Middle
3:57Ages royal families clamor to own as
3:59many of the red gems as they could but
4:02until the 18th century all red gems were
4:05considered rubies thousands of years ago
4:07they had no way to identify gemstone
4:09otherwise by its color so if it was red
4:11it was a ruby it's green it's an emerald
4:14if it's blue
4:15it's a sapphire we didn't they didn't
4:17know about all the different minerals
4:19red spinel and red garnet were often
4:21mistaken for rubies in fact it wasn't
4:24until 1783 the chemical differences
4:27between the gems were discovered the
4:29most famous case of mistaken identity is
4:31of the black Prince's ruby in the
4:35British crown jewels and one of the
4:38Crown's has a very large egg size red
4:44stone that was called the black prince
4:46ruby wars were fought for this Ruby
4:49except it wasn't a ruby when the gem was
4:53I examined Gemological II for the first
4:57time in its history by the gem testing
4:59laboratory in London they took this Ruby
5:04they discovered it is not Ruby it is red
5:07spinel nevertheless the 170 carrot gem
5:11still proudly rests on the cross pattée
5:14of England's Imperial state crown
5:17roofies weren't the only gemstones
5:20believed to have been possessed of
5:21magical powers blue sapphires once
5:24symbolized divine favor purity and
5:27wisdom making them the favorite gemstone
5:30of religious leaders and Kings you know
5:33they always attributed power to the
5:35gemstones you know they they just felt
5:36that these had an influence over
5:38people's lives to to bring success to
5:41them and to kind of shun negativity so
5:43that's why they collected a lot of them
5:45in ancient India people believed the
5:48earth rested upon a giant sapphire whose
5:50Ray's colored the sky a brilliant blue
5:53sapphire is that blue of the ocean or of
5:56this of the heavens you know these these
5:59gemstones have these properties that are
6:01reminiscent of other aspects of nature
6:04while sapphires brought wisdom emeralds
6:07were thought to give the most desired
6:09gift of all life five thousand years ago
6:12the Egyptians discovered emeralds in the
6:15eastern mountains bordering the Red Sea
6:17they valued emeralds not only for their
6:19beauty but also as a source of eternal
6:22youth green gems were often associated
6:25with rebirth regrowth faithfulness
6:30Egyptian pharaohs were entombed with
6:33emeralds believing the gems would keep
6:35them young in the afterlife
6:37any places you can find emeralds they
6:38they they would have definitely been
6:40highly highly prized when Spanish
6:43conquistadors reached the new world in
6:45search of gold they were met by Incans
6:47heavily adorned with emeralds and other
6:49gems emeralds were sacred to the Incans
6:52the natives told the story about Indian
6:58king who was rich beyond belief and who
7:02used to make offerings into a lake his
7:06body was naked covered by turpentine and
7:10that covered by layers of gold dust and
7:14he would go to the lake and throw
7:16emeralds into the lake the story was
7:19just a legend but when the conquistadors
7:22returned to Spain they brought back so
7:24many emeralds
7:25their value plummeted the emeralds that
7:28came into to Spain in the in the 16th
7:36century they came in such great
7:38quantities that the price dropped for
7:41them
7:42the Spanish traded their newfound
7:43emeralds in India where they were in
7:45great demand by the Mughal Empire in the
7:48great period of the Maharajah's in the
7:51mogul period the finest gems found
7:56anywhere on earth found their ways to
8:00the Mogul ports mogul rulers in India
8:03and they would be bedecked with jewels
8:05they'd have you know their crowns honor
8:07their their top hats their with all
8:10kinds of rubies and sapphires and
8:12diamonds most of today's priceless
8:14rubies emeralds and sapphires are in the
8:17hands of the world's royal families and
8:19famous museums but these days it's not
8:22just royalty who own all the gems in
8:24smaller sizes almost anyone can acquire
8:28one of these coveted stones but to
8:30appreciate their beauty
8:31it takes an understanding of how they
8:34form
8:40gemstones form deep down inside the
8:43earth where magmatic and metamorphic
8:45processes take billions of years to
8:47shape them into crystals
8:48although rubies and sapphires look
8:51different they're essentially the same
8:53as magma cools within the Earth's crust
8:56aluminum and oxygen atoms crystallize to
8:59form clear corundum which is the base
9:01mineral for both gems rubies and
9:04sapphires of the same gemstone
9:06they're both corundum the only
9:09difference is the colouring agent trace
9:12amounts of iron and titanium makes
9:14sapphires blue and chromium makes rubies
9:16red but there can be several other
9:19colors as well
9:20sapphire can also be purple yellow pink
9:24can be orangey pink can be a whole
9:28variety of different mixtures rubies and
9:32sapphires are not only pretty they are
9:34also extremely durable on the Mohs scale
9:37of hardness corundum is a 9 second only
9:40to diamonds at 10 but the scale is
9:43relative diamonds are much harder than
9:45rubies and sapphires or any other
9:47natural substance known but rubies and
9:51sapphires are much harder than emeralds
9:53which have a hardness of 7 to 8 the
9:56durability of a gemstone is a direct
9:58result of how it forms the more violent
10:01the formation the more likely a gemstone
10:03will have inclusions and fractures and
10:05in some cases make the stone more
10:08brittle all colored gems fall into one
10:10of three formation categories in
10:13category 1 those gems
10:15form under the gentlest of geologic
10:18conditions then this category 2 they
10:21form under more difficult geologic
10:25conditions sapphires and rubies as
10:27products of volcanic activity are
10:29category 2 gemstones it's not uncommon
10:33to see inclusions within their crystal
10:34structures emeralds however fall under
10:37category 3 category three gemstones form
10:42under the most violent geologic
10:45conditions
10:46and because of the violent conditions
10:49under which they form they are more
10:51prone to have cracks and other features
10:56that are readily visible to the naked
10:58eye in most cases and mold is a classic
11:01example of this Emeralds are formed
11:04during intense tectonic activity for
11:06example when the Earth's crust folds and
11:09buckles to form a mountain range when
11:11this happens trace amounts of chromium
11:13or vanadium bond with the clear barrel
11:16silicate creating beautiful green
11:18crystals but when a mountain range is
11:21created a multitude of minerals are
11:23forced to mix together some of these
11:25minerals get inside the Emerald as it
11:27forms creating tiny but numerous
11:30inclusions emeralds have so many
11:32inclusions normally that a poetic way to
11:35define the inclusions is by calling them
11:39an emerald garden and an emerald garden
11:42may be formed by included crystals blast
11:45fractures which are also common within
11:48emeralds and in the gem trade are called
11:51feathers inclusions visible to the naked
11:53eye are accepted in emeralds which have
11:56the most inclusions of all gemstones
11:57those inclusions can also be considered
12:00the emeralds birthmarks identifying
12:02where it was formed it is possible to
12:05tell the origin of the emerald by
12:07looking at the inclusions the emeralds
12:12from Africa have tremolite needles which
12:19are an unfilled crystal the emeralds
12:24from Brazil may have biotite so all
12:28those are identifiers of origin and
12:34identifiers that the MLS actually a
12:37natural one it's virtually impossible to
12:39find an emerald without some internal
12:41defect but with all gemstones the higher
12:44the clarity the higher the value if you
12:47find an emerald for example that's
12:49typically included that is fairly free
12:53of inclusions well that's a very rare
12:54thing and the stunt would be quite
12:56valuable in rare cases specific
12:58inclusions inside an emerald will create
13:00desirable patterns raising the value
13:03exponentially these are called Trump
13:06Ichi emeralds and are only found in one
13:09small mountainous region of Colombia at
13:12repeat emerald is an emerald that has
13:18inside some pattern that resembles the
13:23spokes of a wheel and the card will
13:28pattern is formed by inclusions of
13:31graphite that follow planes within the
13:35emeralds the best for pg emeralds are
13:38deep green and have well-defined rays
13:40that meet perfectly in the center most
13:42people heard of it most Jim collectors
13:45or gemologist have never really seen it
13:47something that you open up your book on
13:49geology and there's the only true peach
13:51you've ever seen so to actually
13:53experience holding one and seeing one is
13:54amazing rubies and sapphires can also
13:57contain inclusions that result in rare
13:59desirable patterns those needles will
14:03produce shining lines of light that have
14:09a star pattern and you will obtain star
14:13rubies and a star sapphire the finest
14:16colors and most expensive star gems tend
14:19to come from India Sri Lanka and Burma
14:21color differences will affect the star
14:24will be your sapphire the same way they
14:25will affect the faceted ruby or sapphire
14:31or a regular cabochon but the intensity
14:35of the star on top of that
14:38has to be added to the mix and very few
14:41people I know can afford a star ruby or
14:44a star sapphire that is truly
14:47transparent with an incredible color
14:49with an incredible star because they are
14:52so incredibly rare if you can have a
14:54stone that has a perfect star in the
14:56center it's priceless literally
14:59priceless the largest blue sapphire ever
15:01found is the star of india unearthed in
15:04sri lanka more than 300 years ago it
15:07weighs a massive 563 carats six milky
15:11Ray's point outwards from the center
15:13inside a deep blue dome today it's in
15:17the collection of the Museum of Natural
15:18History in New York City gemstones of
15:22such elegance are extremely rare but one
15:25thing is for sure wherever gems are
15:27found there are people who will spend
15:29their lives digging them out so the rest
15:31of us can enjoy them gemstones are found
15:39in geological pockets all over the world
15:41usually in very remote and rugged
15:43locations sapphires come from Sri Lanka
15:47India and Burma to name a few places but
15:50the largest sapphire field in the world
15:52is in central Queensland Australia the
15:56Aniki field covers an area of almost 350
15:59square miles since the 1870s dark blue
16:02sapphires have been found here but green
16:05yellow and even pink varieties are also
16:08common 50 million years ago massive
16:11volcanic activity rained down corundum
16:13crystals and other gem bearing rock
16:15across the area on the line just on the
16:18Tropic of Capricorn here it seems that
16:20the conditions away down the Earth's
16:22mantle when these when these volcanoes
16:24were exploding had the exactly the right
16:26ingredients for conditions in the rock
16:28to form the support over time more
16:31layers of volcanic Durden
16:33covered the wash the layer of ancient
16:35gravel where the sapphires are found
16:37Peter Brown lives in the township of
16:40ruby vale where he's been mining Aniki
16:42sapphires for over 30 years
16:45iseman the decomposed granite we've got
16:48a layer of gravel and rocks and then we
16:52go up to sandy layers and that here this
16:54riverbed where ancient River be able to
16:56lay down something like 15 million years
16:58ago you can imagine the sapphires or
17:00blasted air the volcanoes dumped on the
17:03surrounding landscape with a few
17:04kilometres around here and then with
17:06these massive rains washed into these
17:09valleys and then charged down these
17:12valleys are some more like big big mud
17:15flows with rocks and gravel sort of like
17:18you see coming out of a concrete mixer
17:20like more gravelly sort of wash and the
17:22heavy sapphires and iron stone get
17:25caught up and we're looking for those
17:27rich little areas the mining process is
17:30hard work but fortunes have been made
17:32out here I mean they have to clean over
17:34after a big dam for one day just to go
17:37spec in what we call walk around looking
17:39on the ground and just picked up a 40
17:41carat rough on you go out there and just
17:44wander around the bush and you can have
17:46a chance of picking up a stone or they
17:48say you know or come to the Sapphire
17:50future could stub your toe on a fortune
17:51in another part of the Aniki field Ray
17:54Richardson runs one of the few
17:55commercial mining operations we've been
17:58mining this area for about three years
18:01we done extensive drilling through this
18:04new area and found this new deposit of
18:06sapphires here sapphires are not
18:09typically found in a host rock like
18:10diamonds they are loose and occur
18:13randomly once found they need to be
18:16separated from other minerals in mining
18:18operations like Richardson's excavators
18:21dig down to the wash and remove the gem
18:23bearing dirt then it's transported to
18:26the wash plant for closer inspection
18:27goes through the procedure of washing it
18:30and goes through a trauma which sizes
18:32the material we only wash up to 15
18:37millimeters over that because in this
18:39area there's not a lot of big sapphire
18:41so the rest of its discharged absolutely
18:44trommel and then inside the trommel it's
18:47all scrubbed and Holly water pressure
18:49hits it him there and cleans it all up
18:50and from there goes through the pulse
18:52eiders and that's what catches the
18:55sapphires the sapphires are collected in
18:57buckets which Ray takes home for sorting
18:59with a magnetic separator and as the
19:02material travels at along the shuttle
19:04conveyor belt the join Stein sticks to
19:06it and gets dragged back underneath and
19:08the sapphires and any other material
19:10ports and stuff like that goes forwards
19:13course fault into the front bucket the
19:15rough sapphires are separated by hand
19:17from any other materials and then
19:19further sorted for size and color then
19:22it's off to Bangkok for cutting we cut
19:25them into eight or ten different shapes
19:27and sizes emerald cut I get lucky oval
19:32round princess square trilliant first
19:37any shape and in all the sizes from ten
19:40millimeters up to six or eight
19:41millimeters so all shapes all sizes once
19:45the stones are cut they're calibrated
19:46for size and sent to jewelers around the
19:49world
19:51Aniki may be the largest sapphire field
19:54in the world but it's no longer the most
19:56prolific the majority of high-quality
19:58blue and fancy colored sapphires are now
20:01being discovered in even more exotic
20:03locations the main supplier sapphires in
20:07the world at the moment are coming from
20:08places like Madagascar are very bright
20:11bright blue and very well sought after
20:14on the market in 1998 significant
20:17deposits of high-quality corundum were
20:20found in the town of Allah cacao the
20:22discovery sparked a mining frenzy
20:24swelling the population from 40 people
20:27to thousands of hopeful prospectors the
20:30African island is only 225,000 square
20:33miles but it's a gemologist dream come
20:36true Madagascar is like one of these
20:38great treasure troves that has really
20:40hit the scene in the last decade
20:42producing new gemstone after new
20:45gemstone located on the gem saturated
20:48mozambique orogenic belt
20:50emeralds garnets tourmaline x' crystal
20:53barrels alexandrite x' aquamarines and
20:56sapphires are all found here but the
20:59most recent discovery was in 2001 when
21:02rubies were found in the sprawling
21:04shanty town of more manga so you tend to
21:06have rubies found in in places that are
21:09associated with mountain chains so the
21:12kinds of places that rubies are mined
21:15are often for quite inhospitable that
21:19the environment is difficult here mining
21:25methods are rudimentary at best hand
21:27digging shafts and panning in the
21:29streams is as technical as it gets but
21:32it means everyone rich or poor can join
21:35in you see these people worked so hard
21:38digging in there with primitive tools
21:40and this is the way it is it's the same
21:42process now as it was thousands of years
21:45ago everywhere in between
21:47the same process of these groups of
21:51people in there digging in these little
21:53pits in these mining areas and hopefully
21:55finding something not so easy it's not
21:59mechanized in the same way as diamond
22:01mining or summer gold mining it's still
22:05a hit and miss you could be 10 feet off
22:09you could be 6 feet off and not even
22:12find the vein and it's very risky and so
22:17it takes a lot of work on the muddy
22:19banks of streams locals work in small
22:21teams to collect and pan through buckets
22:23of Ruby rich dirt nearby men are digging
22:27holes 8 feet down and 2 feet wide when
22:30they reach the wash level they dig the
22:33dirt out laterally with picks and
22:34shovels it's tough work for hopes of a
22:37big payoff rough stones are cleaned and
22:41brought into the town where the town's
22:42folk lend a hand sorting them into piles
22:44of color and size Malagasy rubies tend
22:47to be purplish red to very dark red and
22:50are generally quite small however some
22:53areas have produced rough transparent
22:55crystals yielding faceted pieces as
22:57large as 12 carats
22:59these specimens usually contain
23:01inclusions of zircon or root till find
23:04quality Ruby in large sizes is very hard
23:06to come by in such a gem rich area it's
23:09a wonder there are no large commercial
23:11operations but the terrain discourages
23:14any large machinery from being brought
23:16in Madagascar is really rough it's
23:20really rough and when people think rough
23:22this is like really rugged to go there
23:25to get to more manga from the capital of
23:28a ton on areevo it's a day of driving
23:31followed by a full day of bushwhacking
23:33through the dense jungle these stones by
23:36and large come from very remote and
23:38exotic areas places like the Andes
23:41Mountains in South America and Colombia
23:44Madagascar Mozambique Burma Sri Lanka
23:47they're very remote a lot of times in a
23:50jungle region foreign gem dealers who
23:53come to Madagascar do not venture into
23:55the remote mining towns instead they
23:59work from trading Hut's that are
24:00established in major townships like on
24:02De La Mina miners from more manga and
24:05other boom towns trek in and out daily
24:08trading gems for cash but Madagascar
24:12isn't the only country blessed with such
24:14a dizzying array of treasures tucked
24:16away in the hills of eastern Brazil lies
24:19the bustling town of Nova era mining for
24:22emeralds began here in the 1960s with no
24:25signs of slowing down
24:26I've been in the mines in Brazil that
24:29emerald mines in Brazil we're seeing the
24:32schist come out of the ground the dirt
24:34coming out of the ground and you see
24:36emerald crystals this is just like fresh
24:39out of the ground like that it's pretty
24:40amazing
24:41Antonio Raimundo dos Santos works a mine
24:43outside Nova era
24:45it's a typical setup workers are lowered
24:48down a narrow shaft on a makeshift
24:50wooden seat 300 feet below a low ceiling
24:53tunnel fitted with cart tracks awaits
24:55light bulbs are strung along one side to
24:58provide light for the worker
24:59whoo tamp sticks of dynamite into the
25:01walls it's muddy dark and dangerous we
25:05find the veins then we detonate them and
25:08after you finish detonating them you
25:10check to see if there is anything and if
25:13there is the guys gather them and bring
25:15them up here up on the surface other
25:18workers winch cauldrons of dirt up from
25:20below and empty them onto the ground
25:22rocks are divided up by size for sorting
25:25it's extremely physical work but when a
25:28330 carat rough emerald like this one is
25:31unearthed fatigue gives way to
25:32jubilation all the guys get really
25:36excited holy Mary it is such a joy to
25:39everybody all the workers mainly the
25:41owner he gets really excited when he can
25:44get it it is such a joy to use it is
25:46victory along the outskirts of Nova era
25:49the mine also employs people to pan for
25:52emeralds I find a lot today it is hard
26:03work to keep bending down and
26:05straightening up at night it is not fun
26:07the rough crystals are collected and
26:09transported to towns such as Nova era
26:11for inspection grading and cutting like
26:18diamonds rubies sapphires and emeralds
26:20are graded on the four C's color clarity
26:23cut and carat weight but unlike diamonds
26:27there's only one C that really counts
26:29color in the world of colored stones
26:32color is the most important thing so if
26:38you have a ruby or an emerald whatever
26:42that is exceptional color that's the
26:48most important thing and other factors
26:50become less important gemstones come in
26:53every color of the spectrum but rubies
26:56sapphires and emeralds have set the
26:58standard for the very best hues of red
27:00blue and green being able to see a
27:03slight difference in shade it for
27:06instance in a in a Burma Ruby can make
27:08the difference between a ruby that's
27:10$500 a carat or $5,000 a carat
27:13everything else is equal and subtle
27:16shades are worth a great deal of money
27:19because Mother Earth doesn't make that
27:21shade of color combined with that
27:23clarity combined with that size very
27:26often so it's a it's a it's an indicator
27:28of rarity and it really indicates the
27:31value of the gemstone colors everything
27:32in colored stones when devaluating color
27:35there are three things to consider hue
27:38tone and saturation with gems or with
27:42anything that we judge color with we're
27:44judging hue which is red and we're
27:47judging tone which is in the gem world
27:50is created from 1 to 10 so going from
27:53basically a light light almost colorless
27:56to a dark almost black and Gray's in
27:59between and then we have saturation and
28:01the saturation would be the amount of of
28:04actual color that exists to the average
28:07person one emerald might look the same
28:09as the next but in the eyes of a gem
28:12connoisseur the slightest degree of
28:14contrast in tone or saturation can alter
28:17the gems value dramatically it really is
28:20one of the one of the areas where
28:22technology has not replaced expertise
28:25personal expertise I think it would be
28:28akin to someone that's an art
28:30connoisseur someone that's at the top of
28:31their game in the art world you can't
28:34expect a machine to look at a painting
28:36and know what that person knows from
28:39their experience
28:39it's very similar with gemstones find
28:42Colombian emeralds for example are
28:44bright green with a very faint hint of
28:46blue earning top dollar per carat on the
28:48market while Zambian emeralds are deep
28:50bluish green with exceptionally high
28:53clarity and some Brazilian specimens are
28:55green that's slightly tinted with yellow
28:58Burmese rubies are so superior in color
29:00they're known as Burma red and are
29:03likened to the color of pigeons blood at
29:05market they can fetch twice as much as
29:08any other color of
29:09Ruby's just term pigeon blood red which
29:13is not really a technical term more of a
29:15more of a marketing term it just it's
29:17it's come to mean the best color of red
29:20that can be found in rubies some gems
29:22have more than one color which also
29:24affects grading anisotropic gemstones
29:28when the light splits in two rays and
29:33follows different directions the
29:36absorption and therefore the color of
29:40CERN in each one of those directions may
29:42be different and there are gemstones
29:46that may show two colors in a sapphire
29:50one angle might show a vivid blue but
29:53turn it over and it might have a purple
29:55or green in it some rubies show
29:57different Reds at different angles it is
30:00in the skill of the cutter again two
30:03before deciding how he or she is going
30:06to cut the stone to orient it so that it
30:11will show the best color face up light
30:13source can also affect the color you see
30:15in a stone color trueness and different
30:18types of light affects the desirability
30:20of a stone and therefore its value a
30:23beautiful blue in all lighting
30:25environments can cause a stone to sell
30:28for much more than one that looks
30:30fabulous in this light but then you go
30:32inside and it's it's more purpley blue
30:36trace elements inside gems create
30:38dazzling colors but too much of an
30:41element can cause a myriad of other
30:43problems unfortunately with emeralds and
30:45rubies very often the element or the
30:49trace impurity that gives it the color
30:51the fine color which is usually chromium
30:54is the same element that stresses the
30:57stone during formation atoms of chromium
31:00replace atoms of aluminum of the host
31:02crystal for both rubies and emeralds
31:05once the gem is unearthed the chromium
31:08absorbs all the wavelengths of light
31:10except those we perceive as either red
31:12or green but too much chromium will make
31:15the Ruby or emerald brittle and it can
31:18break
31:19it's a double-edged sword when you're
31:20dealing particularly it seems with
31:22chromium chromium again can also be a
31:24growth inhibitor for Ruby that's why
31:26it's very rare to see two three four
31:30karat Jimmy transparent vivid red rubies
31:34they're yielding prices now hundreds of
31:38thousands of dollars per carat right now
31:40because of that factor Ruby's very
31:43unique when you compare it to a lot of
31:45other gemstones the carat weight of
31:47colored gemstones is also important but
31:49often misunderstood the the actual
31:52weight of diamond for example is lighter
31:56than Ruby and Sapphire and heavier than
32:00an emerald so if you had three stones
32:03that all weighed one carat a one carat
32:07Ruby a one carat emerald and one carat
32:09diamond and they were all cut in the
32:11exact same shape and the same
32:13proportions the ruby or sapphire would
32:17look almost 25% smaller than the diamond
32:21and the emerald will look larger than
32:24the diamond no matter what the carat
32:26weight an expert cut can add tremendous
32:28value to any sized gem it's what makes
32:31the stone come to life color gems are
32:34usually mined in one country and are
32:36sent to another for cutting Thailand's
32:38tradition of cutting sapphires and
32:40rubies dates back centuries
32:41a lot of the sapphire and Ruby are cut
32:44in Thailand but there are cutting
32:47centers all over the world but the bulk
32:49of those will be cut in those areas in
32:51the case of emeralds Brazil is one
32:53country that has become known for both
32:55its rich mines and highly skilled
32:57cutters in the town of Nova era lapidary
33:01Sala Miranda cuts up to a dozen emeralds
33:04a day
33:07have a nightmare my favorite stone to
33:09work and cut is the Emerald because I
33:13was practically born in an emerald site
33:16here
33:18emerald cutting techniques are passed
33:19down from generation to generation my
33:26uncles and parents worked with the
33:28Emerald so this is a stone I've always
33:32been around since I was little and I
33:35learned how to cut emeralds are so
33:37difficult to cut
33:38Salo must consider many factors before
33:41starting work on a new piece of rough
33:51for you to start cutting a stone you
33:54will weigh it to see how you will use
33:55the stone and then you will see where
33:58you will saw if you have inclusions
34:01where you will draw the saw to see the
34:04position you will form you have to
34:07analyze the position of color the
34:10crystallization for you to give its
34:13shape of all the shapes into which an
34:16emerald is cut there is one that is by
34:18far the most popular in fact it's named
34:21after the gem the emerald cut it gets
34:24its name because the shape of the
34:26crystal the emerald crystal itself lends
34:29itself to that shape you can almost see
34:32a box inside a box inside a box and it
34:35creates can create a very lively stone
34:39the emerald is a stone that you cannot
34:42waste a good stone must be used to its
34:46maximum so that you can earn more in
34:48terms of carats in fact most of the time
34:52colored gems are cut to emphasize or
34:54highlight their natural crystal
34:56structure sapphires and rubies because
34:58of the way the rough occurs are usually
35:02cut in what we call a cushion cut which
35:04is sort of them think of a cushion as a
35:06round with squared corners or square
35:09with rounded corners after gemstones are
35:13cut they are often treated to enhance
35:15their natural character and beauty
35:17emeralds are typically treated with an
35:19oil or resin to fill fractures and hide
35:22surface imperfections emeralds are
35:24routinely oiled to enhance their beauty
35:27it's not improving their color it's
35:30improving the clarity and this is going
35:33back to the times of Cleopatra it's
35:35actually noted that emeralds were
35:37actually oiled to make them more
35:38beautiful so it is a very standard
35:41routine practice for emeralds by putting
35:44a colorless oil into those cracks it
35:49provides a medium through which the
35:50light now doesn't stop and get scattered
35:53it travels through so it eliminates that
35:55whitish
35:56so you can actually more accurately and
35:59precisely grade the most important
36:02factor affecting the value the color but
36:06oiling emeralds is just one age-old
36:08treatment sapphires and rubies benefit
36:11from heat treatment inside the earth
36:13extremely high temperatures are crucial
36:15to gemstone formation so heat treatment
36:18is like a continuation of that natural
36:20process in Queensland Australia where
36:24the majority of sapphires are dark inky
36:26blue Peter Brown uses heat to treat
36:28rough crystals in his lapidary workshop
36:30so these are sapphires that have decided
36:32need the heat treatment to lighten some
36:34of them and then to take the silk out of
36:36some of the other ones all the different
36:38colors we put them in a little sapphire
36:42crucible or corundum crucible and then
36:50they go into the oven which is a heat
36:53treating process that goes up to 1400 to
36:561600 degrees Celsius over an eight-hour
36:59period so they reach the maximum
37:00temperature for maybe an air and they
37:02cool down so it's an overnight process
37:04in the oven a special computer program
37:07controls internal temperatures inside
37:09the oven if the critical temperature is
37:11not maintained during the heating
37:13process the sapphires can crack the
37:16inclusions will heat up and expand at a
37:21different rate than the Ruby that holds
37:25them or the Sapphire that hold them and
37:27that may cause the inclusions to open up
37:33fractures within the Ruby
37:37although heat treatment of gemstones is
37:39common practice it can affect price and
37:42should always be disclosed at the point
37:44of sale fine quality untreated sapphires
37:47rubies and emeralds are very rare
37:49command much higher prices and should
37:52always come with a gem testing report as
37:54gemologist we have to be able to
37:56identify if a gem stone has been treated
37:59because so many gemstones are treated
38:02today
38:03these days it's exceptionally rare to
38:05find a beautiful faceted ruby sapphire
38:07or emerald that is untreated without
38:10modern-day heat treatment none of us
38:11would have a job in the jewelry industry
38:13there would not be enough rubies and
38:15sapphires to meet any of the demand that
38:18exists on earth today one reason that
38:20you can go in a jewelry store in any
38:22major city in the world and buy colored
38:25stone jewelry with rubies and sapphires
38:27is because modern-day heat-treatment
38:29rubies and unheated rubies and unheated
38:32sapphires are so rare without that only
38:34the wealthiest people on earth could
38:36afford them so if a buyer wants a stone
38:38of hide color and clarity with fewer
38:40zeros on the price tag a heat-treated
38:43ruby or sapphire is a fantastic and
38:45affordable choice
38:52the elements minerals and geological
38:55conditions required to form gemstones so
38:57rarely occur together within nature
38:59it's a miracle gemstones form at all
39:02current deposits will only get smaller
39:04as they are mined and once a deposit is
39:07completely gone
39:08new deposits may never be found my
39:11suggestion is if you see a nice don't
39:13get it because you never know where
39:16that's going to be in the future those
39:18pockets fry up emeralds especially are
39:21very rare and eventually the deposits
39:24will run out the highest quality
39:26sapphire deposit ever found has already
39:28disappeared which is greatly affected
39:31price most people have heard maybe of
39:34the name of Kashmir sapphires well they
39:36were discovered around 1900 in Kashmir
39:40India and within a very short period of
39:42time within two three years that mine
39:44was depleted but what it produced was
39:47some of the most spectacular
39:49world-famous sapphires that have never
39:52been seen again no other area in that
39:54region no other gemstone know whether
39:56sapphire deposit in the world has
39:58produced a sapphire of love that color
40:00or clarity or quality of all the colors
40:03of corundum available ruby red is by far
40:06the rarest fine quality rubies are
40:09steadily becoming scarce er although
40:11recent discoveries like the ones in
40:13Madagascar will help bolster the supply
40:15for a while the overall world supply
40:18will continue to diminish but recent
40:21scientific breakthroughs have offered an
40:23alternative in 1902 French chemist or
40:27ghost fern Oy perfected the flame fusion
40:30process a quick and easy way of creating
40:32synthetic gem balls or crystals flame
40:35fusion is a method that essentially
40:39smelting the chemical components that
40:43make corundum you have an oxygen
40:48hydrogen torch that is heating a chamber
40:51through which powder in the case of
40:56columbium aluminum oxide drops with the
40:59dopant of chromium or titanium and iron
41:03to give the color and that melt falls us
41:06droplet on a cylinder and it envelopes
41:09the cylinder and the cylinder is lowered
41:12as the bull grows within hours a
41:16synthetic Ruby or sapphire can be grown
41:18using flame fusion but there are
41:20disadvantages
41:21those are bulls are under stress because
41:27they crystallize pretty fast so
41:31typically they break in half lengthwise
41:35so the size the maximum size of the gem
41:38that you're going to get is given by
41:41half the size of the bull there are
41:44several other ways to create higher
41:45quality corundum one is flux growth
41:48which imitates metamorphic conditions
41:50inside the earth where gemstones formed
41:53naturally flux grown rubies and
41:55sapphires are very high quality and
41:58typically runs several hundred dollars
42:00per carat you can get fabulous color in
42:02a flawless gemstone and that color with
42:06that degree of flawlessness virtually
42:08never happens in mother nature if it
42:10does those are the gems that cost
42:12hundreds of thousands to millions of
42:15dollars but in a synthetic like a
42:17synthetic emerald you can have the best
42:19color imaginable in a totally flawless
42:21crystal which just doesn't happen in
42:23mother nature another method for
42:25creating almost flawless gems uses water
42:28other methods to make synthetic gems are
42:33hydrothermal methods where instead of
42:37using a melt the nutrients are dissolved
42:40in water solutions and
42:44the crystal growth from a seed so in
42:49some cases the seed can be still
42:53identified in the grown crystal and it
42:59is in the skill of the cutter not to use
43:01the portion of the crystal that has the
43:03seeds so that that is hidden
43:06both the flux and hydrothermal methods
43:09have produced beautiful gems but just
43:11like natural gems quality comes at a
43:14price
43:14the flux techniques and the hydrothermal
43:17techniques produce the more expensive
43:21type of synthetics because they more
43:24resemble the way in which nature works
43:27and take far more time whereas by flame
43:31fusions a bull can be grown in hours it
43:34may take you know months to grow
43:38hydrothermal gemstone some synthetic
43:43gems so perfectly mimic the real deal it
43:46can take a lot of effort to identify the
43:47differences I bought one of the finest 3
43:51karat Burma rubies in the world it was
43:54superb and I had a client that wanted to
43:57buy it but it was under the condition
43:59that it had a lab certificate with it
44:01saying that it was Burmese Ruby and it
44:03was natural I sent it off to the lab and
44:07he said he needed to have it for quite a
44:09while I asked him what the problem was
44:11and he said I'm having a tough time
44:13determining whether it's genuine or not
44:15now after you spend a lot of money and
44:18you hear that you really start to worry
44:19and he said we're gonna shoot an x-ray
44:22fluorescence spectrometer on that and
44:24see if we can determine if their trace
44:27minerals there that are found in Burma
44:29and sure enough after several days and
44:34me was sleepless nights I found out that
44:36it was in fact a natural gemstone but it
44:39took several people working at all the
44:41major labs to determine whether it was
44:45man-made or natural as major gem testing
44:48labs have developed new testing methods
44:50the line between natural and synthetic
44:52is less murky
44:54the greatest challenge for the synthetic
44:56industry has not been the manufacturing
44:58process it has been in gaining
45:00acceptance by gem connoisseurs who want
45:03to know their gemstone was formed
45:04naturally over billions of years with no
45:07help from man a gemstone synthetic is a
45:10gem that's been made in a laboratory
45:11that wasn't mined it wasn't made by
45:13Mother Nature deep within the earth 100
45:16million years ago it was made by a
45:18laboratory perhaps in China two weeks
45:22that's the difference but chemically
45:24optically and physically it is a ruby
45:26it's not a fake it is a ruby but what's
45:30a ruby like that worth compared to that
45:32million dollar Ruby that was found the
45:34best ruby found in the last five years
45:36at a mocha Burma that's the difference
45:38rubies sapphires and emeralds are
45:40considered precious because they are
45:42beautiful durable and most of all rare
45:45as time goes on scientists will likely
45:48continue to find more inexpensive and
45:50faster ways to recreate in the lab what
45:53mother nature took eons to produce but
45:56whether the product is of science or
45:58nature like the kings and Pharaohs of
46:01ancient times mankind will always value
46:04the alluring beauty and timeless
46:06elegance of a precious gem
Top 10 | Most Beautiful and Expensive Rubies in the World
Andrew Pidor · 10:10 · 204 845 views
Наталья: «Вот такое ещё тоже точно найдем»
Transcript (216 lines) — клик по тайм-коду открывает YouTube на нужной секунде
0:05there are a few things on this planet
0:06that are so alluring and entrancing that
0:09words always fall short to describe
0:11their Timeless Beauty worth and
0:14significance Ruby stone is one such
0:17mesmerizing phenomenon known for its
0:20Divine Beauty robust impact and
0:23spectacular Brilliance Ruby is an
0:25indispensable part of the big four Club
0:28of gemstones as well as one of the most
0:31expensive gemstones in the world in
0:33terms of price and value only diamonds
0:36can go head-to-head with
0:38rubies the finest and the most valuable
0:41rubies in the world have Lush and deep
0:44red color minimal inclusions and color
0:47zoning and Hefty carrot
0:50weight every year at different jewelry
0:53and gemstone auctions you will find some
0:55of the rarest gemstones including rubies
0:58being sold at a mammoth price to Ardent
1:01gemstone
1:06collectors the second entry on this list
1:08by the famous Cartier but what an entry
1:10it is while smaller than the previous
1:13entry this 10.10 karat Burmese Ruby
1:17possesses the much desired Pigeon Blood
1:19coloration which is why its sale price
1:22was over $1 million more than the
1:24previous entry the 3.5 cm long platinum
1:29and Diamond set
1:30made by the master Craftsman at Cartier
1:32only helps to accentuate this stunning
1:35example of a ruby which the letter
1:37accompanying the SF Swiss gemological
1:40Institute
1:41confirms the Ruby possesses
1:43extraordinary characteristics and merits
1:46special mention and appreciation the
1:48Ruby exhibits a saturated and Vivid red
1:51color combined with a fine Purity and a
1:54very attractive cutting
1:58Style one Ruby that has most definitely
2:01has not been overlooked is the graph
2:03Ruby but it is hard to ignore a gemstone
2:07that broke the world record price on two
2:10separate occasions it originally came up
2:13for auction in February 2006 at the
2:15chrisy sale in Geneva when it was set in
2:18a Bulgari mount it was bought by famed
2:20Jeweler Lawrence graph for 3.6 million
2:25who then renamed the stone after himself
2:28the stone was reset in a more
2:30contemporary Mount before being sold
2:34privately the Ruby was then offered at
2:36auction in November 2014 and was bought
2:39by none other than Lawrence graph who
2:41paid another world record price of $8.6
2:45million and as far as is known it is
2:47still part of the graph
2:53collection now we are getting to the
2:55really expensive rubies as this 10.05
2:58carat untreated Burmese Ruby sold for
3:01over $10 million in
3:042016 the platinum and gold diamond
3:06encrusted Mount was made by one of the
3:09world's leading sources of fine quality
3:12Burmese rubies
3:14fade and this example has to be one of
3:17the best they have ever sold the
3:19previous owners certainly wanted to add
3:21as much Providence as they could to this
3:23stunning Stone as it was accompanied by
3:26reports from three of the world's
3:28leading gem labs Gia gualan and
3:32SF who accompanied their report with an
3:35appendix that contained the following
3:37statement a natural Ruby from Burma of
3:40this size and quality is very rare and
3:43exceptional and can be considered a true
3:45Treasure of
3:49nature just missing out on the top seven
3:52is the very impressive
3:5413.26 karat untreated Burmese Ruby the
3:58ring is a unique design whose taste may
4:01not be for everyone but the centerpiece
4:03is certainly spectacular and the
4:05accompanying 10 plus carats of top
4:07quality diamonds aren't bad either as
4:10with all of the rubies on this list this
4:12stunning example is accompanied by
4:15reports in this case they are from
4:17gualan who had this to
4:20say it displays a homogeneous and richly
4:24saturated color which typifies the
4:26finest of these gems in addition this
4:29remarkable gemstone has been spared of
4:31thermal treatment making this Ruby a
4:34truly unique
4:38Rarity the sixth entry on the list is a
4:40spectacular Ruby and diamond ring the
4:43stunning antique cushion cut Pigeon
4:45Blood colored Ruby weighs in at an
4:48impressive
4:4924.70 carats and has the desired
4:52attributes of being a Burmese Ruby that
4:55has not been subjected to any treatments
4:58enhancements while not a record breaker
5:00like some of the other rubies on this
5:02list this rare example of an extremely
5:04fine Ruby is deserving of a place
5:07amongst the most expensive rubies ever
5:09sold at
5:14auction the only unnamed Ruby on the
5:16list and there is not much history
5:18surrounding the stone but as the title
5:20suggests the ruby in this ring is truly
5:24exceptional it has all the attributes
5:26that is required of the finest rubies
5:29coming from The mogok Valley in Burma
5:31this
5:3215.03 karat untreated Ruby possesses the
5:35most desirable Pigeon Blood color the
5:38report from the American gemological
5:40laboratory says that the clarity is
5:42remarkable for a ruby of this size this
5:45Ruby flew under the radar due to it not
5:47breaking any records but it is very
5:50deserving of its position as the fourth
5:52most expensive ruby ever sold at
5:57auction the Jubilee Ruby is a a stunning
6:0115.99 karat oval cut untreated Burmese
6:05Ruby when the Ruby was offered for sale
6:07at Christy's New York in
6:092016 it was the finest example to be
6:12offered at auction in the United States
6:14for over 25 years and the sale price
6:18broke the record for the amount paid for
6:20a colored gemstone in the
6:23USA the appendix on the ssf report
6:26perfectly describes the
6:28Ruby its attractive Vivid red color is
6:31due to a combination of well-balanced
6:33Trace elements in this gemstone
6:36characteristic for the finest rubies
6:38from mogok in addition to these
6:40qualities this Ruby has been spared
6:43exposure to heat treatment and its
6:45Clarity and color are thus all natural a
6:48natural Ruby from Burma of this size and
6:50quality is very rare and thus can be
6:53considered an exceptional
6:58treasure
7:00when the Crimson flame Ruby sold in
7:02December 2015 it became the most
7:05expensive ruby per carrot in history
7:08beating the record set earlier in
7:112015 it could be argued that the Crimson
7:14flame is the finest Ruby to ever be sold
7:18as the
7:1915.04 carrot cushion cut untreated
7:22Pigeon Blood Burmese Ruby is just about
7:25as close to Perfection you can get as of
7:28the start of 2018 its record setting
7:31price per carrat has yet to be beaten as
7:34with the Jubilee Ruby above SF knew just
7:38how to describe
7:39it its Vivid and saturated red color
7:43poetically referred to as Pigeon Blood
7:45Red is due to a combination of
7:47well-balanced Trace elements in this
7:49Stone characteristic for the finest
7:52rubies from mogok a natural Ruby from
7:55Burma of this size and quality is very
7:58rare and thus can be considered an
8:01exceptional
8:06treasure the sunrise Ruby was the
8:08world's most expensive ruby for over 8
8:11years and for just over 6 months it also
8:14held the title of highest price per
8:17carat before being beaten by the Crimson
8:20flame at over 10 Kats bigger than its
8:23main rival the sunrise is a truly
8:26exceptional Ruby being an untreated p
8:29and blood Burmese Ruby only adds to its
8:33desirability when it sold in 2015 it
8:36smashed the previous record set by the
8:38graph Ruby in 2014 by over4 million $21
8:44million and it will interesting to see
8:47what will Dethrone it as the world's
8:49most expensive
8:55ruby the australa Deora was one of the
8:57most anticipated Ruby sales in history
9:00as this unique example differs from
9:02every other Ruby on this list for two
9:05reasons the first is the size of the
9:07stone which weighs nearly 30 karats more
9:09than the sunrise Ruby which is an
9:12exceptionally large Ruby and was the
9:14first time a stone of this size and
9:16quality had ever been offered for
9:18auction the second reason is that the
9:21estala deura was mined on mosam Beek and
9:24is the first Ruby to make the top 10
9:26that was mined outside of Burma Mayanmar
9:30and it really put rubies from this part
9:32of the world on the map the estala deura
9:35was accompanied by five reports from
9:37highly respected gem Labs that all
9:39commented on how special this example is
9:42but only GRS and bellaphon used Pigeon
9:46Blood when talking about the color of
9:48the stone which is
9:58interesting
10:09yeah

YTUVI02 Сапфир и Падпараджа

Синий = сапфир, все остальные цвета = фэнси. Падпараджа — коллекционный пик, «рассвет/закат».

Полный idea-файл (концепт, hook, b-roll, references)

Корунд · Сапфир и Падпараджа

Concept

Вторая часть серии «корунды». Если 001 — рубин, то тут — всё остальное: синий сапфир как эталон, фэнси-сапфиры всех цветов, звёздчатые сапфиры, и кульминация — падпараджа как самый коллекционный корунд. Объясняем, почему «сапфир» = синий по умолчанию, но на рынке сапфир бывает любого цвета; и почему один особый оттенок получил собственное имя.

Structure (канальная формула)

1. Hook — «Слово "сапфир" значит синий — ровно до тех пор, пока вы не увидели розово-оранжевый.»

2. Geology — как фэнси-цвета появляются в корунде (Fe, Ti, V, Cr в малых концентрациях). Те же 3 эпохи месторождений, что в 001.

3. Свойства — плеохроизм (сапфиры сильно меняют цвет при повороте), шелк, звёздчатые и кошачий глаз через кабошон.

4. Как определяют месторождение — Кашмир (закрыт, легендарный velvety blue), Burma Mogok, Цейлон (Шри-Ланка), Мадагаскар, Монтана.

5. Падпараджа — розово-оранжевый / оранжево-розовый сапфир. Термины «рассвет» и «закат». Кто вообще решает, что камень — падпараджа (конфликт между GRS, SSEF, Gübelin). Исторически связан с Шри-Ланкой, современный — Мадагаскар.

6. Звёздчатые сапфиры — отдельный мини-блок. Рутил, 6-лучевые, редкие 12-лучевые. Тизер на отдельный будущий выпуск.

7. Облагораживание — нагрев стандарт, beryllium diffusion (ключевая ловушка, особенно в оранжевых/жёлтых).

8. Рынок / аукционы — Kashmir premium (×10 к цене), Padparadscha rare lot cases.

9. Как читать сертификат — Flower Royal Blue (GRS), «Padparadscha» как обозначение — читаем внимательно, смотрим, какая лаборатория выписала.

Key Points

  • Сапфир по умолчанию = синий. Все остальные цвета = fancy sapphire (должна быть цветовая приставка).
  • Падпараджа — единственный fancy-сапфир, у которого есть собственное имя. Это маркетинговая ценность.
  • Цейлонская падпараджа исторически дороже мадагаскарской. Разница — в обязательном «lotus flower / sunset» цвете.
  • Beryllium diffusion делает дешёвый жёлтый сапфир похожим на оранжевый/padparadscha — определяется только лабораторией.
  • Кашмирский сапфир = абсолютный топ. Месторождение закрыто, на рынке — только старые камни из частных коллекций.

Reference quotes from kickoff

> [00:04 Наталья] «Сапфир, рубин — это часть корунда. В целом корунд — это такая штука. Если он красный, то он рубин. Но он может быть не обязательно синим, он может быть любого другого цвета, и это уже цветной сапфир.»

> [00:24 Наталья] «Если просто звучит слово сапфир — это синий; если любой другой цвет — это значит, что это фэнси-сапфир.»

> [20:27 Наталья] «В коронтах мы ещё сапфиры не зашли — а там есть сапфир под парад же. Это вообще писец. Хоть чуть-чуть человек шарит в камнях, он знает, что это убийца: дорогой, редкий и крутой коллекционный камень. Розово-оранжевый, оранжево-розовый, не пойми, какого цвета.»

> [21:56 Наталья] «Маркетинговые названия им иногда дают “рассвет” и “закат”. Если он чуть более розоватый — рассвет, а закат будет чуть более оранжевый.»

Hook Ideas

  • «Слово "сапфир" значит синий — ровно до тех пор, пока вы не увидели розово-оранжевый.»
  • «Камень, название которого решает лаборатория. И от него зависит цена × 3.»
  • «Цейлон vs Мадагаскар: битва за имя "Padparadscha".»

B-Roll / Visuals

  • Макро: синий Кашмир, Ceylon blue, pink, yellow, green, padparadscha — spectrum
  • Анимация кристаллической решётки с замещением разных атомов
  • Карта: Kashmir, Mogok, Шри-Ланка, Мадагаскар, Монтана
  • Side-by-side: сертификат GRS vs SSEF на один и тот же камень (если найдётся)
  • Кабошон — 6-лучевая звезда на повороте

Открытые вопросы / research

  • Найти реальный кейс одного камня с двумя отчётами разных лабораторий (GRS vs SSEF vs Gübelin)
  • Уточнить текущую трактовку «Padparadscha» у GRS
  • Сделать side-by-side демо «рассвет» и «закат» на тех камнях, которые привезёт Наталья

References

  • GRS padparadscha reference card
  • SSEF Academy (Lucerne)
  • Gübelin Gem Lab notes
  • Елена Веселая — контекст про аукционы сапфиров

💬 Тезисы из встречи

0:04 · Наталья«сапфир рубин – это часть корунда, в зависимости от того, что в него попало.»
1:13 · Наталья«Те, которые, ну, в общем, вот эти вот три типа как раз камней, которые там из разряда 5 миллионов лет, 100 миллионов лет, 500 миллионов лет, вот что -то такое.»
1:37 · Наталья«Можно будет найти наверняка информацию про какие -то королевские украшения, стопудов картьете, какие -нибудь тиары гигантские, там, сапфиры…»
8:53 · Наталья«если они несколько раз вот так вот выложились, то у тебя получается звёздочка.»
21:58 · Наталья«всё правильно сказал. И вот эти вот маркетинговые названия, в том числе им иногда дают рассвет и закат.»

Референс-видео по теме

Three Precious Gems: Rubies, Emeralds, Sapphires
JTV · 46:47 · 1 329 228 views
Наталья: «А вот тут JTV — это прямо Ювелирочка в США (большой телемагазин)»
Transcript (1009 lines) — клик по тайм-коду открывает YouTube на нужной секунде
0:04rubies sapphires and emeralds they are
0:08the Holy Trinity of the most precious
0:09colored gemstones on earth the radiant
0:12hues of red green and blue are the
0:15finest Mother Nature has to offer for
0:17thousands of years pharaohs and
0:19Emperor's kings and queens have all
0:21coveted these beautiful lustrous gems
0:24the royalty the Maharajah's in India the
0:27royal families in England these people
0:29have always collected the gemstones
0:31because it was not just a sign of wealth
0:33they considered it a sign of power these
0:36three gemstones are true miracles of
0:38nature and are rarer even than diamonds
0:40they're timeless beauty inspires love
0:43passion and loyalty and with proper care
0:46their durability ensures that they can
0:49be handed down from generation to
0:51generation join us as we travel to
0:53remote mining towns visit the world's
0:56finest gem cutters and discover the
0:58secret world of these three precious
1:01gems
1:31throughout the ages rubies sapphires and
1:35emeralds have been coveted by mankind
1:37along with diamonds they are the
1:40ultimate symbols of wealth power and
1:42prestige during the Middle Ages they
1:45were known as the cardinal gems for
1:47their extensive use in the clergies most
1:49precious ceremonial objects crucifixes
1:52rings and amulets all bore these gems as
1:55symbols of virtue and piety over the
1:58centuries the big stones are probably
2:01the emerald ruby sapphire and diamond
2:03mostly its due to their the fact that
2:06they come out of the earth or a natural
2:08product and and they possess a certain
2:12amount of beauty rubies sapphires and
2:15emeralds are highly valued for three
2:17reasons one they are durable they are
2:21among the hardest substances found on
2:23earth - they are rare found in such
2:27limited amounts that throughout history
2:29only the very wealthy have been able to
2:31afford them and three they are beautiful
2:35the most notable trait of any gemstone
2:37is its color and no color is as vibrant
2:41or as vivid as the red hue that emanates
2:44from a ruby like flames from a fire
2:46rubies are considered to be by some to
2:51be the most valuable gem of all and it's
2:57probably because it is so rare and it is
3:03the such a striking color for much of
3:07recorded history rubies were valued more
3:10highly than diamonds they look to the
3:14heavens there and they saw the Sun and
3:16they attributed a ruby to the Sun and in
3:19India ruby is called Raja Raja the king
3:21of gems rubies were also thought to help
3:24with a range of physical ailments Ruby
3:27for example is has been associated with
3:29blood for
3:31thousands of years redstone's color
3:34blood were very often connected to
3:36therapeutic beliefs and and cures for
3:40various things early civilizations
3:43believe the stones would restore youth
3:44and vitality have rubbed on the skin and
3:47if worn into battle as some brave
3:49warriors did they were thought to bestow
3:52invulnerability once rubies were
3:55introduced to Europe in the early Middle
3:57Ages royal families clamor to own as
3:59many of the red gems as they could but
4:02until the 18th century all red gems were
4:05considered rubies thousands of years ago
4:07they had no way to identify gemstone
4:09otherwise by its color so if it was red
4:11it was a ruby it's green it's an emerald
4:14if it's blue
4:15it's a sapphire we didn't they didn't
4:17know about all the different minerals
4:19red spinel and red garnet were often
4:21mistaken for rubies in fact it wasn't
4:24until 1783 the chemical differences
4:27between the gems were discovered the
4:29most famous case of mistaken identity is
4:31of the black Prince's ruby in the
4:35British crown jewels and one of the
4:38Crown's has a very large egg size red
4:44stone that was called the black prince
4:46ruby wars were fought for this Ruby
4:49except it wasn't a ruby when the gem was
4:53I examined Gemological II for the first
4:57time in its history by the gem testing
4:59laboratory in London they took this Ruby
5:04they discovered it is not Ruby it is red
5:07spinel nevertheless the 170 carrot gem
5:11still proudly rests on the cross pattée
5:14of England's Imperial state crown
5:17roofies weren't the only gemstones
5:20believed to have been possessed of
5:21magical powers blue sapphires once
5:24symbolized divine favor purity and
5:27wisdom making them the favorite gemstone
5:30of religious leaders and Kings you know
5:33they always attributed power to the
5:35gemstones you know they they just felt
5:36that these had an influence over
5:38people's lives to to bring success to
5:41them and to kind of shun negativity so
5:43that's why they collected a lot of them
5:45in ancient India people believed the
5:48earth rested upon a giant sapphire whose
5:50Ray's colored the sky a brilliant blue
5:53sapphire is that blue of the ocean or of
5:56this of the heavens you know these these
5:59gemstones have these properties that are
6:01reminiscent of other aspects of nature
6:04while sapphires brought wisdom emeralds
6:07were thought to give the most desired
6:09gift of all life five thousand years ago
6:12the Egyptians discovered emeralds in the
6:15eastern mountains bordering the Red Sea
6:17they valued emeralds not only for their
6:19beauty but also as a source of eternal
6:22youth green gems were often associated
6:25with rebirth regrowth faithfulness
6:30Egyptian pharaohs were entombed with
6:33emeralds believing the gems would keep
6:35them young in the afterlife
6:37any places you can find emeralds they
6:38they they would have definitely been
6:40highly highly prized when Spanish
6:43conquistadors reached the new world in
6:45search of gold they were met by Incans
6:47heavily adorned with emeralds and other
6:49gems emeralds were sacred to the Incans
6:52the natives told the story about Indian
6:58king who was rich beyond belief and who
7:02used to make offerings into a lake his
7:06body was naked covered by turpentine and
7:10that covered by layers of gold dust and
7:14he would go to the lake and throw
7:16emeralds into the lake the story was
7:19just a legend but when the conquistadors
7:22returned to Spain they brought back so
7:24many emeralds
7:25their value plummeted the emeralds that
7:28came into to Spain in the in the 16th
7:36century they came in such great
7:38quantities that the price dropped for
7:41them
7:42the Spanish traded their newfound
7:43emeralds in India where they were in
7:45great demand by the Mughal Empire in the
7:48great period of the Maharajah's in the
7:51mogul period the finest gems found
7:56anywhere on earth found their ways to
8:00the Mogul ports mogul rulers in India
8:03and they would be bedecked with jewels
8:05they'd have you know their crowns honor
8:07their their top hats their with all
8:10kinds of rubies and sapphires and
8:12diamonds most of today's priceless
8:14rubies emeralds and sapphires are in the
8:17hands of the world's royal families and
8:19famous museums but these days it's not
8:22just royalty who own all the gems in
8:24smaller sizes almost anyone can acquire
8:28one of these coveted stones but to
8:30appreciate their beauty
8:31it takes an understanding of how they
8:34form
8:40gemstones form deep down inside the
8:43earth where magmatic and metamorphic
8:45processes take billions of years to
8:47shape them into crystals
8:48although rubies and sapphires look
8:51different they're essentially the same
8:53as magma cools within the Earth's crust
8:56aluminum and oxygen atoms crystallize to
8:59form clear corundum which is the base
9:01mineral for both gems rubies and
9:04sapphires of the same gemstone
9:06they're both corundum the only
9:09difference is the colouring agent trace
9:12amounts of iron and titanium makes
9:14sapphires blue and chromium makes rubies
9:16red but there can be several other
9:19colors as well
9:20sapphire can also be purple yellow pink
9:24can be orangey pink can be a whole
9:28variety of different mixtures rubies and
9:32sapphires are not only pretty they are
9:34also extremely durable on the Mohs scale
9:37of hardness corundum is a 9 second only
9:40to diamonds at 10 but the scale is
9:43relative diamonds are much harder than
9:45rubies and sapphires or any other
9:47natural substance known but rubies and
9:51sapphires are much harder than emeralds
9:53which have a hardness of 7 to 8 the
9:56durability of a gemstone is a direct
9:58result of how it forms the more violent
10:01the formation the more likely a gemstone
10:03will have inclusions and fractures and
10:05in some cases make the stone more
10:08brittle all colored gems fall into one
10:10of three formation categories in
10:13category 1 those gems
10:15form under the gentlest of geologic
10:18conditions then this category 2 they
10:21form under more difficult geologic
10:25conditions sapphires and rubies as
10:27products of volcanic activity are
10:29category 2 gemstones it's not uncommon
10:33to see inclusions within their crystal
10:34structures emeralds however fall under
10:37category 3 category three gemstones form
10:42under the most violent geologic
10:45conditions
10:46and because of the violent conditions
10:49under which they form they are more
10:51prone to have cracks and other features
10:56that are readily visible to the naked
10:58eye in most cases and mold is a classic
11:01example of this Emeralds are formed
11:04during intense tectonic activity for
11:06example when the Earth's crust folds and
11:09buckles to form a mountain range when
11:11this happens trace amounts of chromium
11:13or vanadium bond with the clear barrel
11:16silicate creating beautiful green
11:18crystals but when a mountain range is
11:21created a multitude of minerals are
11:23forced to mix together some of these
11:25minerals get inside the Emerald as it
11:27forms creating tiny but numerous
11:30inclusions emeralds have so many
11:32inclusions normally that a poetic way to
11:35define the inclusions is by calling them
11:39an emerald garden and an emerald garden
11:42may be formed by included crystals blast
11:45fractures which are also common within
11:48emeralds and in the gem trade are called
11:51feathers inclusions visible to the naked
11:53eye are accepted in emeralds which have
11:56the most inclusions of all gemstones
11:57those inclusions can also be considered
12:00the emeralds birthmarks identifying
12:02where it was formed it is possible to
12:05tell the origin of the emerald by
12:07looking at the inclusions the emeralds
12:12from Africa have tremolite needles which
12:19are an unfilled crystal the emeralds
12:24from Brazil may have biotite so all
12:28those are identifiers of origin and
12:34identifiers that the MLS actually a
12:37natural one it's virtually impossible to
12:39find an emerald without some internal
12:41defect but with all gemstones the higher
12:44the clarity the higher the value if you
12:47find an emerald for example that's
12:49typically included that is fairly free
12:53of inclusions well that's a very rare
12:54thing and the stunt would be quite
12:56valuable in rare cases specific
12:58inclusions inside an emerald will create
13:00desirable patterns raising the value
13:03exponentially these are called Trump
13:06Ichi emeralds and are only found in one
13:09small mountainous region of Colombia at
13:12repeat emerald is an emerald that has
13:18inside some pattern that resembles the
13:23spokes of a wheel and the card will
13:28pattern is formed by inclusions of
13:31graphite that follow planes within the
13:35emeralds the best for pg emeralds are
13:38deep green and have well-defined rays
13:40that meet perfectly in the center most
13:42people heard of it most Jim collectors
13:45or gemologist have never really seen it
13:47something that you open up your book on
13:49geology and there's the only true peach
13:51you've ever seen so to actually
13:53experience holding one and seeing one is
13:54amazing rubies and sapphires can also
13:57contain inclusions that result in rare
13:59desirable patterns those needles will
14:03produce shining lines of light that have
14:09a star pattern and you will obtain star
14:13rubies and a star sapphire the finest
14:16colors and most expensive star gems tend
14:19to come from India Sri Lanka and Burma
14:21color differences will affect the star
14:24will be your sapphire the same way they
14:25will affect the faceted ruby or sapphire
14:31or a regular cabochon but the intensity
14:35of the star on top of that
14:38has to be added to the mix and very few
14:41people I know can afford a star ruby or
14:44a star sapphire that is truly
14:47transparent with an incredible color
14:49with an incredible star because they are
14:52so incredibly rare if you can have a
14:54stone that has a perfect star in the
14:56center it's priceless literally
14:59priceless the largest blue sapphire ever
15:01found is the star of india unearthed in
15:04sri lanka more than 300 years ago it
15:07weighs a massive 563 carats six milky
15:11Ray's point outwards from the center
15:13inside a deep blue dome today it's in
15:17the collection of the Museum of Natural
15:18History in New York City gemstones of
15:22such elegance are extremely rare but one
15:25thing is for sure wherever gems are
15:27found there are people who will spend
15:29their lives digging them out so the rest
15:31of us can enjoy them gemstones are found
15:39in geological pockets all over the world
15:41usually in very remote and rugged
15:43locations sapphires come from Sri Lanka
15:47India and Burma to name a few places but
15:50the largest sapphire field in the world
15:52is in central Queensland Australia the
15:56Aniki field covers an area of almost 350
15:59square miles since the 1870s dark blue
16:02sapphires have been found here but green
16:05yellow and even pink varieties are also
16:08common 50 million years ago massive
16:11volcanic activity rained down corundum
16:13crystals and other gem bearing rock
16:15across the area on the line just on the
16:18Tropic of Capricorn here it seems that
16:20the conditions away down the Earth's
16:22mantle when these when these volcanoes
16:24were exploding had the exactly the right
16:26ingredients for conditions in the rock
16:28to form the support over time more
16:31layers of volcanic Durden
16:33covered the wash the layer of ancient
16:35gravel where the sapphires are found
16:37Peter Brown lives in the township of
16:40ruby vale where he's been mining Aniki
16:42sapphires for over 30 years
16:45iseman the decomposed granite we've got
16:48a layer of gravel and rocks and then we
16:52go up to sandy layers and that here this
16:54riverbed where ancient River be able to
16:56lay down something like 15 million years
16:58ago you can imagine the sapphires or
17:00blasted air the volcanoes dumped on the
17:03surrounding landscape with a few
17:04kilometres around here and then with
17:06these massive rains washed into these
17:09valleys and then charged down these
17:12valleys are some more like big big mud
17:15flows with rocks and gravel sort of like
17:18you see coming out of a concrete mixer
17:20like more gravelly sort of wash and the
17:22heavy sapphires and iron stone get
17:25caught up and we're looking for those
17:27rich little areas the mining process is
17:30hard work but fortunes have been made
17:32out here I mean they have to clean over
17:34after a big dam for one day just to go
17:37spec in what we call walk around looking
17:39on the ground and just picked up a 40
17:41carat rough on you go out there and just
17:44wander around the bush and you can have
17:46a chance of picking up a stone or they
17:48say you know or come to the Sapphire
17:50future could stub your toe on a fortune
17:51in another part of the Aniki field Ray
17:54Richardson runs one of the few
17:55commercial mining operations we've been
17:58mining this area for about three years
18:01we done extensive drilling through this
18:04new area and found this new deposit of
18:06sapphires here sapphires are not
18:09typically found in a host rock like
18:10diamonds they are loose and occur
18:13randomly once found they need to be
18:16separated from other minerals in mining
18:18operations like Richardson's excavators
18:21dig down to the wash and remove the gem
18:23bearing dirt then it's transported to
18:26the wash plant for closer inspection
18:27goes through the procedure of washing it
18:30and goes through a trauma which sizes
18:32the material we only wash up to 15
18:37millimeters over that because in this
18:39area there's not a lot of big sapphire
18:41so the rest of its discharged absolutely
18:44trommel and then inside the trommel it's
18:47all scrubbed and Holly water pressure
18:49hits it him there and cleans it all up
18:50and from there goes through the pulse
18:52eiders and that's what catches the
18:55sapphires the sapphires are collected in
18:57buckets which Ray takes home for sorting
18:59with a magnetic separator and as the
19:02material travels at along the shuttle
19:04conveyor belt the join Stein sticks to
19:06it and gets dragged back underneath and
19:08the sapphires and any other material
19:10ports and stuff like that goes forwards
19:13course fault into the front bucket the
19:15rough sapphires are separated by hand
19:17from any other materials and then
19:19further sorted for size and color then
19:22it's off to Bangkok for cutting we cut
19:25them into eight or ten different shapes
19:27and sizes emerald cut I get lucky oval
19:32round princess square trilliant first
19:37any shape and in all the sizes from ten
19:40millimeters up to six or eight
19:41millimeters so all shapes all sizes once
19:45the stones are cut they're calibrated
19:46for size and sent to jewelers around the
19:49world
19:51Aniki may be the largest sapphire field
19:54in the world but it's no longer the most
19:56prolific the majority of high-quality
19:58blue and fancy colored sapphires are now
20:01being discovered in even more exotic
20:03locations the main supplier sapphires in
20:07the world at the moment are coming from
20:08places like Madagascar are very bright
20:11bright blue and very well sought after
20:14on the market in 1998 significant
20:17deposits of high-quality corundum were
20:20found in the town of Allah cacao the
20:22discovery sparked a mining frenzy
20:24swelling the population from 40 people
20:27to thousands of hopeful prospectors the
20:30African island is only 225,000 square
20:33miles but it's a gemologist dream come
20:36true Madagascar is like one of these
20:38great treasure troves that has really
20:40hit the scene in the last decade
20:42producing new gemstone after new
20:45gemstone located on the gem saturated
20:48mozambique orogenic belt
20:50emeralds garnets tourmaline x' crystal
20:53barrels alexandrite x' aquamarines and
20:56sapphires are all found here but the
20:59most recent discovery was in 2001 when
21:02rubies were found in the sprawling
21:04shanty town of more manga so you tend to
21:06have rubies found in in places that are
21:09associated with mountain chains so the
21:12kinds of places that rubies are mined
21:15are often for quite inhospitable that
21:19the environment is difficult here mining
21:25methods are rudimentary at best hand
21:27digging shafts and panning in the
21:29streams is as technical as it gets but
21:32it means everyone rich or poor can join
21:35in you see these people worked so hard
21:38digging in there with primitive tools
21:40and this is the way it is it's the same
21:42process now as it was thousands of years
21:45ago everywhere in between
21:47the same process of these groups of
21:51people in there digging in these little
21:53pits in these mining areas and hopefully
21:55finding something not so easy it's not
21:59mechanized in the same way as diamond
22:01mining or summer gold mining it's still
22:05a hit and miss you could be 10 feet off
22:09you could be 6 feet off and not even
22:12find the vein and it's very risky and so
22:17it takes a lot of work on the muddy
22:19banks of streams locals work in small
22:21teams to collect and pan through buckets
22:23of Ruby rich dirt nearby men are digging
22:27holes 8 feet down and 2 feet wide when
22:30they reach the wash level they dig the
22:33dirt out laterally with picks and
22:34shovels it's tough work for hopes of a
22:37big payoff rough stones are cleaned and
22:41brought into the town where the town's
22:42folk lend a hand sorting them into piles
22:44of color and size Malagasy rubies tend
22:47to be purplish red to very dark red and
22:50are generally quite small however some
22:53areas have produced rough transparent
22:55crystals yielding faceted pieces as
22:57large as 12 carats
22:59these specimens usually contain
23:01inclusions of zircon or root till find
23:04quality Ruby in large sizes is very hard
23:06to come by in such a gem rich area it's
23:09a wonder there are no large commercial
23:11operations but the terrain discourages
23:14any large machinery from being brought
23:16in Madagascar is really rough it's
23:20really rough and when people think rough
23:22this is like really rugged to go there
23:25to get to more manga from the capital of
23:28a ton on areevo it's a day of driving
23:31followed by a full day of bushwhacking
23:33through the dense jungle these stones by
23:36and large come from very remote and
23:38exotic areas places like the Andes
23:41Mountains in South America and Colombia
23:44Madagascar Mozambique Burma Sri Lanka
23:47they're very remote a lot of times in a
23:50jungle region foreign gem dealers who
23:53come to Madagascar do not venture into
23:55the remote mining towns instead they
23:59work from trading Hut's that are
24:00established in major townships like on
24:02De La Mina miners from more manga and
24:05other boom towns trek in and out daily
24:08trading gems for cash but Madagascar
24:12isn't the only country blessed with such
24:14a dizzying array of treasures tucked
24:16away in the hills of eastern Brazil lies
24:19the bustling town of Nova era mining for
24:22emeralds began here in the 1960s with no
24:25signs of slowing down
24:26I've been in the mines in Brazil that
24:29emerald mines in Brazil we're seeing the
24:32schist come out of the ground the dirt
24:34coming out of the ground and you see
24:36emerald crystals this is just like fresh
24:39out of the ground like that it's pretty
24:40amazing
24:41Antonio Raimundo dos Santos works a mine
24:43outside Nova era
24:45it's a typical setup workers are lowered
24:48down a narrow shaft on a makeshift
24:50wooden seat 300 feet below a low ceiling
24:53tunnel fitted with cart tracks awaits
24:55light bulbs are strung along one side to
24:58provide light for the worker
24:59whoo tamp sticks of dynamite into the
25:01walls it's muddy dark and dangerous we
25:05find the veins then we detonate them and
25:08after you finish detonating them you
25:10check to see if there is anything and if
25:13there is the guys gather them and bring
25:15them up here up on the surface other
25:18workers winch cauldrons of dirt up from
25:20below and empty them onto the ground
25:22rocks are divided up by size for sorting
25:25it's extremely physical work but when a
25:28330 carat rough emerald like this one is
25:31unearthed fatigue gives way to
25:32jubilation all the guys get really
25:36excited holy Mary it is such a joy to
25:39everybody all the workers mainly the
25:41owner he gets really excited when he can
25:44get it it is such a joy to use it is
25:46victory along the outskirts of Nova era
25:49the mine also employs people to pan for
25:52emeralds I find a lot today it is hard
26:03work to keep bending down and
26:05straightening up at night it is not fun
26:07the rough crystals are collected and
26:09transported to towns such as Nova era
26:11for inspection grading and cutting like
26:18diamonds rubies sapphires and emeralds
26:20are graded on the four C's color clarity
26:23cut and carat weight but unlike diamonds
26:27there's only one C that really counts
26:29color in the world of colored stones
26:32color is the most important thing so if
26:38you have a ruby or an emerald whatever
26:42that is exceptional color that's the
26:48most important thing and other factors
26:50become less important gemstones come in
26:53every color of the spectrum but rubies
26:56sapphires and emeralds have set the
26:58standard for the very best hues of red
27:00blue and green being able to see a
27:03slight difference in shade it for
27:06instance in a in a Burma Ruby can make
27:08the difference between a ruby that's
27:10$500 a carat or $5,000 a carat
27:13everything else is equal and subtle
27:16shades are worth a great deal of money
27:19because Mother Earth doesn't make that
27:21shade of color combined with that
27:23clarity combined with that size very
27:26often so it's a it's a it's an indicator
27:28of rarity and it really indicates the
27:31value of the gemstone colors everything
27:32in colored stones when devaluating color
27:35there are three things to consider hue
27:38tone and saturation with gems or with
27:42anything that we judge color with we're
27:44judging hue which is red and we're
27:47judging tone which is in the gem world
27:50is created from 1 to 10 so going from
27:53basically a light light almost colorless
27:56to a dark almost black and Gray's in
27:59between and then we have saturation and
28:01the saturation would be the amount of of
28:04actual color that exists to the average
28:07person one emerald might look the same
28:09as the next but in the eyes of a gem
28:12connoisseur the slightest degree of
28:14contrast in tone or saturation can alter
28:17the gems value dramatically it really is
28:20one of the one of the areas where
28:22technology has not replaced expertise
28:25personal expertise I think it would be
28:28akin to someone that's an art
28:30connoisseur someone that's at the top of
28:31their game in the art world you can't
28:34expect a machine to look at a painting
28:36and know what that person knows from
28:39their experience
28:39it's very similar with gemstones find
28:42Colombian emeralds for example are
28:44bright green with a very faint hint of
28:46blue earning top dollar per carat on the
28:48market while Zambian emeralds are deep
28:50bluish green with exceptionally high
28:53clarity and some Brazilian specimens are
28:55green that's slightly tinted with yellow
28:58Burmese rubies are so superior in color
29:00they're known as Burma red and are
29:03likened to the color of pigeons blood at
29:05market they can fetch twice as much as
29:08any other color of
29:09Ruby's just term pigeon blood red which
29:13is not really a technical term more of a
29:15more of a marketing term it just it's
29:17it's come to mean the best color of red
29:20that can be found in rubies some gems
29:22have more than one color which also
29:24affects grading anisotropic gemstones
29:28when the light splits in two rays and
29:33follows different directions the
29:36absorption and therefore the color of
29:40CERN in each one of those directions may
29:42be different and there are gemstones
29:46that may show two colors in a sapphire
29:50one angle might show a vivid blue but
29:53turn it over and it might have a purple
29:55or green in it some rubies show
29:57different Reds at different angles it is
30:00in the skill of the cutter again two
30:03before deciding how he or she is going
30:06to cut the stone to orient it so that it
30:11will show the best color face up light
30:13source can also affect the color you see
30:15in a stone color trueness and different
30:18types of light affects the desirability
30:20of a stone and therefore its value a
30:23beautiful blue in all lighting
30:25environments can cause a stone to sell
30:28for much more than one that looks
30:30fabulous in this light but then you go
30:32inside and it's it's more purpley blue
30:36trace elements inside gems create
30:38dazzling colors but too much of an
30:41element can cause a myriad of other
30:43problems unfortunately with emeralds and
30:45rubies very often the element or the
30:49trace impurity that gives it the color
30:51the fine color which is usually chromium
30:54is the same element that stresses the
30:57stone during formation atoms of chromium
31:00replace atoms of aluminum of the host
31:02crystal for both rubies and emeralds
31:05once the gem is unearthed the chromium
31:08absorbs all the wavelengths of light
31:10except those we perceive as either red
31:12or green but too much chromium will make
31:15the Ruby or emerald brittle and it can
31:18break
31:19it's a double-edged sword when you're
31:20dealing particularly it seems with
31:22chromium chromium again can also be a
31:24growth inhibitor for Ruby that's why
31:26it's very rare to see two three four
31:30karat Jimmy transparent vivid red rubies
31:34they're yielding prices now hundreds of
31:38thousands of dollars per carat right now
31:40because of that factor Ruby's very
31:43unique when you compare it to a lot of
31:45other gemstones the carat weight of
31:47colored gemstones is also important but
31:49often misunderstood the the actual
31:52weight of diamond for example is lighter
31:56than Ruby and Sapphire and heavier than
32:00an emerald so if you had three stones
32:03that all weighed one carat a one carat
32:07Ruby a one carat emerald and one carat
32:09diamond and they were all cut in the
32:11exact same shape and the same
32:13proportions the ruby or sapphire would
32:17look almost 25% smaller than the diamond
32:21and the emerald will look larger than
32:24the diamond no matter what the carat
32:26weight an expert cut can add tremendous
32:28value to any sized gem it's what makes
32:31the stone come to life color gems are
32:34usually mined in one country and are
32:36sent to another for cutting Thailand's
32:38tradition of cutting sapphires and
32:40rubies dates back centuries
32:41a lot of the sapphire and Ruby are cut
32:44in Thailand but there are cutting
32:47centers all over the world but the bulk
32:49of those will be cut in those areas in
32:51the case of emeralds Brazil is one
32:53country that has become known for both
32:55its rich mines and highly skilled
32:57cutters in the town of Nova era lapidary
33:01Sala Miranda cuts up to a dozen emeralds
33:04a day
33:07have a nightmare my favorite stone to
33:09work and cut is the Emerald because I
33:13was practically born in an emerald site
33:16here
33:18emerald cutting techniques are passed
33:19down from generation to generation my
33:26uncles and parents worked with the
33:28Emerald so this is a stone I've always
33:32been around since I was little and I
33:35learned how to cut emeralds are so
33:37difficult to cut
33:38Salo must consider many factors before
33:41starting work on a new piece of rough
33:51for you to start cutting a stone you
33:54will weigh it to see how you will use
33:55the stone and then you will see where
33:58you will saw if you have inclusions
34:01where you will draw the saw to see the
34:04position you will form you have to
34:07analyze the position of color the
34:10crystallization for you to give its
34:13shape of all the shapes into which an
34:16emerald is cut there is one that is by
34:18far the most popular in fact it's named
34:21after the gem the emerald cut it gets
34:24its name because the shape of the
34:26crystal the emerald crystal itself lends
34:29itself to that shape you can almost see
34:32a box inside a box inside a box and it
34:35creates can create a very lively stone
34:39the emerald is a stone that you cannot
34:42waste a good stone must be used to its
34:46maximum so that you can earn more in
34:48terms of carats in fact most of the time
34:52colored gems are cut to emphasize or
34:54highlight their natural crystal
34:56structure sapphires and rubies because
34:58of the way the rough occurs are usually
35:02cut in what we call a cushion cut which
35:04is sort of them think of a cushion as a
35:06round with squared corners or square
35:09with rounded corners after gemstones are
35:13cut they are often treated to enhance
35:15their natural character and beauty
35:17emeralds are typically treated with an
35:19oil or resin to fill fractures and hide
35:22surface imperfections emeralds are
35:24routinely oiled to enhance their beauty
35:27it's not improving their color it's
35:30improving the clarity and this is going
35:33back to the times of Cleopatra it's
35:35actually noted that emeralds were
35:37actually oiled to make them more
35:38beautiful so it is a very standard
35:41routine practice for emeralds by putting
35:44a colorless oil into those cracks it
35:49provides a medium through which the
35:50light now doesn't stop and get scattered
35:53it travels through so it eliminates that
35:55whitish
35:56so you can actually more accurately and
35:59precisely grade the most important
36:02factor affecting the value the color but
36:06oiling emeralds is just one age-old
36:08treatment sapphires and rubies benefit
36:11from heat treatment inside the earth
36:13extremely high temperatures are crucial
36:15to gemstone formation so heat treatment
36:18is like a continuation of that natural
36:20process in Queensland Australia where
36:24the majority of sapphires are dark inky
36:26blue Peter Brown uses heat to treat
36:28rough crystals in his lapidary workshop
36:30so these are sapphires that have decided
36:32need the heat treatment to lighten some
36:34of them and then to take the silk out of
36:36some of the other ones all the different
36:38colors we put them in a little sapphire
36:42crucible or corundum crucible and then
36:50they go into the oven which is a heat
36:53treating process that goes up to 1400 to
36:561600 degrees Celsius over an eight-hour
36:59period so they reach the maximum
37:00temperature for maybe an air and they
37:02cool down so it's an overnight process
37:04in the oven a special computer program
37:07controls internal temperatures inside
37:09the oven if the critical temperature is
37:11not maintained during the heating
37:13process the sapphires can crack the
37:16inclusions will heat up and expand at a
37:21different rate than the Ruby that holds
37:25them or the Sapphire that hold them and
37:27that may cause the inclusions to open up
37:33fractures within the Ruby
37:37although heat treatment of gemstones is
37:39common practice it can affect price and
37:42should always be disclosed at the point
37:44of sale fine quality untreated sapphires
37:47rubies and emeralds are very rare
37:49command much higher prices and should
37:52always come with a gem testing report as
37:54gemologist we have to be able to
37:56identify if a gem stone has been treated
37:59because so many gemstones are treated
38:02today
38:03these days it's exceptionally rare to
38:05find a beautiful faceted ruby sapphire
38:07or emerald that is untreated without
38:10modern-day heat treatment none of us
38:11would have a job in the jewelry industry
38:13there would not be enough rubies and
38:15sapphires to meet any of the demand that
38:18exists on earth today one reason that
38:20you can go in a jewelry store in any
38:22major city in the world and buy colored
38:25stone jewelry with rubies and sapphires
38:27is because modern-day heat-treatment
38:29rubies and unheated rubies and unheated
38:32sapphires are so rare without that only
38:34the wealthiest people on earth could
38:36afford them so if a buyer wants a stone
38:38of hide color and clarity with fewer
38:40zeros on the price tag a heat-treated
38:43ruby or sapphire is a fantastic and
38:45affordable choice
38:52the elements minerals and geological
38:55conditions required to form gemstones so
38:57rarely occur together within nature
38:59it's a miracle gemstones form at all
39:02current deposits will only get smaller
39:04as they are mined and once a deposit is
39:07completely gone
39:08new deposits may never be found my
39:11suggestion is if you see a nice don't
39:13get it because you never know where
39:16that's going to be in the future those
39:18pockets fry up emeralds especially are
39:21very rare and eventually the deposits
39:24will run out the highest quality
39:26sapphire deposit ever found has already
39:28disappeared which is greatly affected
39:31price most people have heard maybe of
39:34the name of Kashmir sapphires well they
39:36were discovered around 1900 in Kashmir
39:40India and within a very short period of
39:42time within two three years that mine
39:44was depleted but what it produced was
39:47some of the most spectacular
39:49world-famous sapphires that have never
39:52been seen again no other area in that
39:54region no other gemstone know whether
39:56sapphire deposit in the world has
39:58produced a sapphire of love that color
40:00or clarity or quality of all the colors
40:03of corundum available ruby red is by far
40:06the rarest fine quality rubies are
40:09steadily becoming scarce er although
40:11recent discoveries like the ones in
40:13Madagascar will help bolster the supply
40:15for a while the overall world supply
40:18will continue to diminish but recent
40:21scientific breakthroughs have offered an
40:23alternative in 1902 French chemist or
40:27ghost fern Oy perfected the flame fusion
40:30process a quick and easy way of creating
40:32synthetic gem balls or crystals flame
40:35fusion is a method that essentially
40:39smelting the chemical components that
40:43make corundum you have an oxygen
40:48hydrogen torch that is heating a chamber
40:51through which powder in the case of
40:56columbium aluminum oxide drops with the
40:59dopant of chromium or titanium and iron
41:03to give the color and that melt falls us
41:06droplet on a cylinder and it envelopes
41:09the cylinder and the cylinder is lowered
41:12as the bull grows within hours a
41:16synthetic Ruby or sapphire can be grown
41:18using flame fusion but there are
41:20disadvantages
41:21those are bulls are under stress because
41:27they crystallize pretty fast so
41:31typically they break in half lengthwise
41:35so the size the maximum size of the gem
41:38that you're going to get is given by
41:41half the size of the bull there are
41:44several other ways to create higher
41:45quality corundum one is flux growth
41:48which imitates metamorphic conditions
41:50inside the earth where gemstones formed
41:53naturally flux grown rubies and
41:55sapphires are very high quality and
41:58typically runs several hundred dollars
42:00per carat you can get fabulous color in
42:02a flawless gemstone and that color with
42:06that degree of flawlessness virtually
42:08never happens in mother nature if it
42:10does those are the gems that cost
42:12hundreds of thousands to millions of
42:15dollars but in a synthetic like a
42:17synthetic emerald you can have the best
42:19color imaginable in a totally flawless
42:21crystal which just doesn't happen in
42:23mother nature another method for
42:25creating almost flawless gems uses water
42:28other methods to make synthetic gems are
42:33hydrothermal methods where instead of
42:37using a melt the nutrients are dissolved
42:40in water solutions and
42:44the crystal growth from a seed so in
42:49some cases the seed can be still
42:53identified in the grown crystal and it
42:59is in the skill of the cutter not to use
43:01the portion of the crystal that has the
43:03seeds so that that is hidden
43:06both the flux and hydrothermal methods
43:09have produced beautiful gems but just
43:11like natural gems quality comes at a
43:14price
43:14the flux techniques and the hydrothermal
43:17techniques produce the more expensive
43:21type of synthetics because they more
43:24resemble the way in which nature works
43:27and take far more time whereas by flame
43:31fusions a bull can be grown in hours it
43:34may take you know months to grow
43:38hydrothermal gemstone some synthetic
43:43gems so perfectly mimic the real deal it
43:46can take a lot of effort to identify the
43:47differences I bought one of the finest 3
43:51karat Burma rubies in the world it was
43:54superb and I had a client that wanted to
43:57buy it but it was under the condition
43:59that it had a lab certificate with it
44:01saying that it was Burmese Ruby and it
44:03was natural I sent it off to the lab and
44:07he said he needed to have it for quite a
44:09while I asked him what the problem was
44:11and he said I'm having a tough time
44:13determining whether it's genuine or not
44:15now after you spend a lot of money and
44:18you hear that you really start to worry
44:19and he said we're gonna shoot an x-ray
44:22fluorescence spectrometer on that and
44:24see if we can determine if their trace
44:27minerals there that are found in Burma
44:29and sure enough after several days and
44:34me was sleepless nights I found out that
44:36it was in fact a natural gemstone but it
44:39took several people working at all the
44:41major labs to determine whether it was
44:45man-made or natural as major gem testing
44:48labs have developed new testing methods
44:50the line between natural and synthetic
44:52is less murky
44:54the greatest challenge for the synthetic
44:56industry has not been the manufacturing
44:58process it has been in gaining
45:00acceptance by gem connoisseurs who want
45:03to know their gemstone was formed
45:04naturally over billions of years with no
45:07help from man a gemstone synthetic is a
45:10gem that's been made in a laboratory
45:11that wasn't mined it wasn't made by
45:13Mother Nature deep within the earth 100
45:16million years ago it was made by a
45:18laboratory perhaps in China two weeks
45:22that's the difference but chemically
45:24optically and physically it is a ruby
45:26it's not a fake it is a ruby but what's
45:30a ruby like that worth compared to that
45:32million dollar Ruby that was found the
45:34best ruby found in the last five years
45:36at a mocha Burma that's the difference
45:38rubies sapphires and emeralds are
45:40considered precious because they are
45:42beautiful durable and most of all rare
45:45as time goes on scientists will likely
45:48continue to find more inexpensive and
45:50faster ways to recreate in the lab what
45:53mother nature took eons to produce but
45:56whether the product is of science or
45:58nature like the kings and Pharaohs of
46:01ancient times mankind will always value
46:04the alluring beauty and timeless
46:06elegance of a precious gem

YTUVI03 Гранаты

Цаворит (легенда Бриджеса), демантоид (русский, horsetail), спессартин — разноцветная семья минералов.

Полный idea-файл (концепт, hook, b-roll, references)

Гранаты — Цаворит, Демантоид, Спессартин

Concept

Разрушаем стереотип «гранат = бабушкино тёмно-красное кольцо». Гранат — это целое семейство минералов с десятками цветов. Берём три самые коллекционные разновидности: зелёный цаворит, «бриллиантовый» демантоид (с уникальным horsetail-включением) и ярко-оранжевый спессартин. Показываем, почему гранаты сейчас — «умный» вход в коллекционные камни: цена реальная, подделки отличимы, рынок растёт.

Structure (канальная формула)

1. Hook — «Гранат — это не один камень, а целая таблица Менделеева. Вот три, о которых молчат.»

2. Geology — группа гранатов (пироп, альмандин, спессартин, гроссуляр, андрадит, уваровит), почему цвет определяет химизм, эпохи месторождений.

3. Свойстваизотропность (единственный популярный color stone без двулучепреломления — важный инструмент идентификации), показатель преломления, плотность.

4. Как определяют месторождение — Цаворит: Кения/Танзания. Демантоид: Урал (классика) vs Намибия/Мадагаскар. Спессартин: Намибия (Kunene) / Мозамбик / Нигерия.

5. Облагораживание — гранаты почти не облагораживают — большой плюс для коллекционера.

6. Рынок / аукционы — цаворит > $10k/ct в top-quality, уральский демантоид с horsetail — collector’s premium.

7. Как читать сертификат — какой минерал указан (species vs variety), что значит «Horsetail inclusions present».

8. Вынос — почему семейство гранатов — идеальный учебный материал для начинающего коллекционера.

Key Points

  • Гранат — это группа, не один минерал. Важно понимать species (альмандин, гроссуляр, андрадит…) и variety (цаворит, демантоид, спессартин).
  • Horsetail включения в демантоиде = подпись Урала, premium к цене.
  • Гранаты — изотропны → быстрый способ отсечь их от сапфира/рубина/изумруда.
  • Почти нет практики нагрева/заполнения → «честные» камни.
  • Крупный чистый цаворит (>3 ct) — большая редкость.

Hook Ideas

  • «Забудьте гранат из 90-х. Вот три камня, которые стоят как сапфиры.»
  • «Один минерал с хвостом лошади — и цена × 10.»
  • «Зелёный, который не изумруд. Оранжевый, который не цитрин. Красный, который не рубин.»

B-Roll / Visuals

  • Макро: цаворит/демантоид/спессартин рядом + красный пироп для контраста
  • Микроскоп: horsetail inclusions в демантоиде
  • Карта: Цаворо, Урал (Бобровка), Kunene
  • Схема species vs variety для группы гранатов
  • Изотропность на поляризаторе — демонстрация

Открытые вопросы / research

  • Найти уральский демантоид с выраженным horsetail для макро
  • Сверить свежие аукционные результаты Sotheby’s/Bonhams по цавориту
  • Подтвердить экспертного гостя (геммолог, специализирующийся на гранатах)

References

  • GIA gem encyclopedia — garnet species
  • Уральский горный музей — демантоид

💬 Тезисы из встречи

9:12 · Наталья«Ещё точно также можно взять гранаты, потому что есть отдельно у них подвиды тимантоид, это российские камни с красивыми внутренними хвостами зелёного цвета, с игрой.»
9:36 · Наталья«Второй это спессартин, оранжевый гранат. Третий это цаварит, зелёный гранат.»
10:41 · Наталья«Только не Брюс Бриджес, а другое его имя было, забыла.»
11:08 · Наталья«посмотрел, что это какие -то зелёные, думает, не знаю, что это за камень уже занимается этой темой.»
12:25 · Наталья«эту историю узнала от лаборатории. Он сам мне её не рассказывал ещё.»

Референс-видео по теме

📥 Ждём вторую подборку от Натальи. В первой подборке 2026-04-22 по этому камню референсов не было — делаем запрос на follow-up видео (напр. Gemstones channel про demantoid, или Andrew Pidor по гранатам).

YTUVI04 Шпинель + Корона Российской империи

Историческая подмена: в короне — не рубин, а шпинель. Mahenge, Mogok, cobalt blue, взрывной price index.

Полный idea-файл (концепт, hook, b-roll, references)

Шпинель и Корона Российской империи

Concept

Якорная история — Корона Российской империи, в которой «рубин» на самом деле оказался шпинелью (как и Black Prince's Ruby в британской короне). Вокруг этого разворачиваем весь выпуск про шпинель: самый недооценённый коллекционный камень, который взрывается в цене, не облагораживается, и долгое время просто путался с рубином в королевских регалиях. Кремлёвская Бриллиантовая кладовая — потенциальная location-история.

Structure (канальная формула)

1. Hook — «В короне русских императоров 300 лет сиял "рубин". А это была шпинель. Такая же история — в короне Британии. Такая же — в половине королевских коллекций мира.»

2. Geology — MgAl₂O₄, метаморфические мраморы, Mogok (Бирма), Таджикистан/Памир, Mahenge (Танзания), Вьетнам (Люкьен).

3. Свойства — изотропность (как у граната и бриллианта), твёрдость 8, НЕТ плеохроизма → блеск «как стекло», кристальная чистота цвета.

4. Как определяют месторождение — Mogok red, Mahenge neon hot-pink, Памир lavender, Вьетнам Люкьен cobalt blue.

5. История подмены — Black Prince's Ruby, Timur Ruby, Корона Российской империи («Большой рубин» — на самом деле 398-каратная шпинель из Цейлона/Бирмы). Почему исторически не умели отличать.

6. Облагораживание — практически нет. Каждая шпинель с сертификатом — честный камень. Это USP на рынке.

7. Рынок / аукционы — Mahenge после 2007, взрывной price index, cobalt blue из Вьетнама как топ. Чёрная шпинель на JTV-style ТВ — неожиданный хит (по личной практике Натальи).

8. Как читать сертификат — Species = Spinel, цвет, отсутствие обработки.

9. Кремлёвская локация — опция съёмки в Бриллиантовой кладовой (через статус «ювелирного СМИ»). Если не получится — архивные фото + макет короны.

10. Вынос — почему шпинель = лучшая стартовая позиция в коллекционировании цветных камней.

Key Points

  • Корона Российской империи: центральный «рубин» — 398,72 ct красная шпинель (куплена Николаем Спафари в Пекине у китайского императора в 1676 г.).
  • Black Prince's Ruby в британской Imperial State Crown — тоже шпинель.
  • Шпинель практически не облагораживают → честный рынок.
  • Mahenge (2007) — открытие месторождения изменило рынок розовой/neon шпинели. Цены удвоились за 10 лет.
  • Кобальтовая шпинель (Вьетнам, Шри-Ланка) — редчайший синий синий. Часто путают с сапфиром.
  • Чёрная шпинель — массовый хит ювелирного ТВ, который сами зрители «чуют» как тренд.

Reference quotes from kickoff

> [13:15 Наталья] «Шпинель — это очень популярный нынче камень для всех, кто хоть чуточку возомнил себя любителем или, упаси Боже, инвестором. Она реально несётся в цене как просто дикая.»

> [14:08 Наталья] «Я пять лет назад покупала себе красную шпинель — мне повезло, я не шарила, что делаю. Он у меня сейчас вырос. Но сейчас уже нужно быть очень богатым человеком, чтобы купить себе хорошую красную шпинель.»

> [15:15 Наталья] «В короне Российской империи очень долго все думали, что находится рубин. На самом деле это была красная шпинель. Исторически раньше не отличали рубины от шпинелей. Очень много, где думали, что в украшениях царских находились рубины — на самом деле были шпинели.»

> [14:33 Наталья] «Мы изначально продавали только чёрную шпинель. И это было хитяще просто на нашем канале. Я от нас и узнала, что это за хит такой — наши так набрасываются на чёрную шпинель. А они шарят.»

Hook Ideas

  • «В короне русских императоров 300 лет сиял "рубин". Это была шпинель. И никто не замечал.»
  • «Камень, который дешевле рубина. И лучше его.»
  • «Почему коллекционеры скупают шпинель, а ювелиры только сейчас это поняли.»

B-Roll / Visuals

  • Архивные фото Короны Российской империи + Imperial State Crown (UK)
  • Макро: Mogok red, Mahenge neon pink, cobalt blue, lavender — spectrum
  • Карта: Mogok, Mahenge, Памир, Lục Yên (Люкьен) Вьетнам
  • Side-by-side: рубин vs шпинель на поляризаторе (доказательство изотропности)
  • Аукционные фото Sotheby's Mahenge + Mogok red

Открытые вопросы / research

  • Кремлёвская Бриллиантовая кладовая — реалистичность съёмки через статус «ювелирного СМИ»?
  • Какие шпинели реально доступны для макро: Наталья упомянула красную, кобальтовую, чёрную
  • Подтвердить факты по Короне Российской империи (вес, путь, документальные источники)
  • Индекс цен на шпинель 2015 → 2025 (Наталья обещала показать)

References

  • Бриллиантовая кладовая Кремля (Алмазный фонд РФ)
  • Black Prince's Ruby, Imperial State Crown (UK Crown Jewels)
  • Mahenge discovery (Tanzania, 2007)
  • GRS / GIA / SSEF spinel reports

💬 Тезисы из встречи

3:41 · Наталья«они, ну, каждый вкладывает деньги в то, в чем он шарит, и что он знает, и, соответственно, они знают, что их камни ценные, и берманские…»
13:15 · Наталья«всё. Вот про гранаты тоже можно вот такой выпуск сделать.»
14:08 · Наталья«тебе купить красную шпинель уже сейчас — это уже прям… Ну вот я пять лет назад покупала себе этот камень.»
14:33 · Наталья«Мы изначально продавали только чёрную. И это было хитяще просто на нашем канале.»
15:15 · Наталья«Вот. Короче, там много месторождений. Во Вьетнаме люкьен есть.»

Референс-видео по теме

Spinel Stone; prices, colors, spinel vs ruby comparison & more!
Dominique Flux · 25:04 · 26 241 views
Наталья: «А вот про шпинели девочки рассказывают, явно дилеры. Ну вот вся инфа она в таком неразвлекательном формате)»
Transcript (533 lines) — клик по тайм-коду открывает YouTube на нужной секунде
0:00let's talk about spinels hey guys my
0:02name is Dominic flux and I am joined by
0:04fga gemologist Benedict and we are going
0:07to cover everything that you need to
0:08know about spanel because they come in a
0:10very wide range of color and we're going
0:13to talk about like the colors comparing
0:15them to different stones of similar
0:17colors you know red spanel versus red
0:20ruby the price points treatments all
0:22that good stuff so thanks for watching
0:24and let's jump into it
0:32and we love spinels we love spels spels
0:34are the best yeah all right so first off
0:38I thought we could look at maybe the
0:41wide range of color because they do have
0:43like unique colors like like Silvers and
0:46Grays very interesting colors of purple
0:48as well yeah so spinels will come in a
0:51really wide range of colors and
0:54saturation so you'll have all the pinks
0:56purples purple blue purple pink the Reds
1:01the the Reds will be very like Vivid
1:03they're going to be almost more red than
1:07what you could see in in rubies
1:10sometimes y sometimes they're just more
1:11of a pure red they're super crispy you
1:15can get them in h Grays also but like
1:19even usually in in Gray Stones like gray
1:22sapphires you'll always have some kind
1:25of like green undertone or purple
1:28undertone spels you can really have them
1:30in like these like Steely pure gray so
1:35these were extremely popular a few years
1:38ago they're still popular but they went
1:40a bit up in price so they're bit less
1:43interesting but for people who like
1:45neutral colors it's it's a great option
1:48yeah like I bet you if you liked
1:49peppered diamonds you would probably
1:51like this shade yeah for sure and then
1:54you have some blues you have like a more
1:57of a deeper teely kind of blue and you
2:02have the Cobalt spanel which is the most
2:04expensive and priced one with that is
2:08like really electric blue do you have
2:11any examples here we had one but we sold
2:14it a month ago and they're they're hard
2:17to find we've had it for a really long
2:20time it's it's really for like
2:22collectors like I don't even know if we
2:24want to replace it cuz cuz it's not it's
2:28collectors will want it usually they're
2:30going to be small they're going to be
2:32extremely expensive they're going to be
2:36sometimes kind of weirdly cut cuz they
2:38want to keep them them but they're super
2:40impressive they're like electric
2:43electric blue almost like an appetite or
2:46even more uh even more like you know
2:48those like blue Subarus you see on the
2:50street like the blue that's that's it's
2:54Subaru blue panels and so most of them
2:58come from Vietnam but we have some in
3:00Canada but they're oh co and what colors
3:03do you find in Canada the the electric
3:05blue the cobal blue but they're just too
3:08small to be cut maybe they'll find more
3:11but yeah so so these are the blues you
3:13can find yeah and like I really love
3:16like the pink tones they have a lot of
3:18pink tones and like wide range so like
3:20this is more of like um almost with a
3:22hint of like orange to it you know you
3:24have more purple pinks pastel pinks like
3:28it's yeah you have really
3:31bright like bright pink these ones too
3:35they're like kind of a reddish yeah very
3:40insane color they they they just glow
3:43they're just Absol because they have a
3:45similar refractive index as a sapphire I
3:48think that sometimes when people are
3:49looking for sapphires but don't
3:50necessarily have the price point but
3:52still want something just as beautiful a
3:54spanel is definitely a good option to go
3:55for because you like the colors are just
3:57so vivid it's also it's like it's not as
4:01hard as sappire but it's still an eight
4:03so it's it's good for engagement ring
4:06for rings that you'll wear every day
4:08they're pretty tough they're rarely
4:10treated they can heat treat them I mean
4:14it's since a few years they they've
4:15tried and they've made tests
4:17historically they were not heat treated
4:19but now some of them are but it's like a
4:22good natural option it's a fraction of
4:24the price of sapphires and the the
4:26colors are are beautiful yeah and I mean
4:30just like in terms of like the clarity
4:31as well I think they're pretty
4:33much well I me guess it depends on the
4:35quality right obviously dep stones are
4:38so nice that's why I'm like wow there's
4:41no inclusions there are inclusions I
4:43mean I have here little like you know up
4:46sometimes they can be a bit opalescent
4:48or more milky but when they're well cut
4:52and eye clean and and not included they
4:56have this like they have a very high
4:58luster so they're very like sharp
5:01they're really good awesome so now that
5:04we've touched about the colors I'd like
5:07to show you guys really like color
5:09comparisons in terms of like you know
5:12rubies versus spinels Sapphire versus
5:14spanel because you can see just like the
5:17the the
5:17range of colors that they hit yeah so
5:22here I have a tray that has some spels
5:26and some
5:28sapphires so great gray spinels here and
5:31gray Sapphire so it's it's it's a great
5:34option the red ones I mean you'll you'll
5:38make closeups but it's really hard to
5:40tell even for me these like are equal
5:44quality and all which ones is panel and
5:46which ones are Ruby can I see can I try
5:50yeah let me
5:53see oh she's taking it out for me too
5:56this is serious so these are the the
5:59rubies and spinels and you can guess try
6:02to guess which one's the Ruby and which
6:04one is the
6:10spinel okay so based on the color I'd
6:12actually say this one is probably the
6:13Ruby yes yay
6:18one but as you can see they're both very
6:22similar in color in like the glow they
6:25have mhm and the spinel is half the
6:29price of the Ruby so what are we looking
6:31at for the Ruby the Ruby's around it's
6:34$22,000 for the stone it's a 2 karat
6:36Stone and the spinel is slightly heavier
6:40so 2.36 and it's 12,000 yeah okay so
6:44it's literally half the price because
6:46okay I'm going to say this for rubies
6:48there's certain Stones like rubies
6:49emeralds alexandrites if you don't have
6:52a budget you know over let's say even 6
6:55or 7,000 I wouldn't consider them like
6:57ever really because you're going to end
6:59up with something that's heavily
7:00included because there are stones that
7:02you really have to you know buy a higher
7:05quality for like an engagement ring
7:07unless you want have something like
7:09mediocre you know like a very small
7:11Stone if if you're you have very
7:14delicate and you want a small Stone then
7:15that's fine but for for one for the like
7:19one karat price like one karat point
7:21it's it it's there's options well I
7:26don't I still like I still found I I
7:28made one recently on the one karat range
7:30and it was still I don't remember what I
7:32did I think it was around like 8,000
7:34there's other options there's options in
7:36other Stones like that that's it
7:38emeralds one carat they're super
7:41expensive if you want a nice quality but
7:43yeah you have you have other options all
7:45the time and spinel is a great option
7:48yes all right let's check out these
7:51purples so purples here well we have the
7:54lavender colors that are very trendy and
7:57popular right now this one's the
7:59Sapphire and this one's the spanel and
8:02this one is 1,400 and 600 mhm so have
8:08the price again there's even in so in
8:12sapphires if you watch the videos we
8:14made talked about the pat paracha
8:17Sapphires and spinel has also similar
8:21color has Pat paracha y carat weight
8:25they're about 1 Point around 1.5 karat
8:28this one's 1,000 this one's 10,000 yeah
8:30so it's a big price difference and they
8:32they look very very similar you guys
8:34they're very I came in asking her if it
8:36was um yeah and this one this one's also
8:39a sapphire so you have this panel in the
8:42middle and you can you you can tell it's
8:45it's the same color it's it's not the
8:47same value but if that's the color you
8:50want in sapphires you're looking at yeah
8:55you know $10,000 and more for one Kat
8:57Stone so it's a great great option yeah
9:02beautiful I love it and uh yeah so
9:05purples there's purple blue this
9:08is the spinel this is the sapphire spel
9:11is going to be 600 the sapphire is going
9:14to be two 2,500 mhm they're both they're
9:191.24 and 1.27 Kat so very close uh
9:23weights but yeah you're looking at least
9:27half the price of of sapphire
9:30yeah and in terms of like the pink ones
9:32as well yeah very similar in color same
9:35thing fraction of the price yeah this
9:37one is sapphire 1.43 Karat and 1.3 Karat
9:41and um Sapphire is the double of the
9:44price so
9:462200 and 1300
9:50yeah and I think also that spinels is
9:54kind of like secret that we cuz we had
9:57so we recently made a post
9:59on Instagram with new Fels and and
10:02Jewelers are like we love it but we also
10:05don't want people to know about it
10:08because know because they're they're so
10:10nice and and if people know about it the
10:13price are going to go up but this is
10:15like this is our secret for the people
10:18in the industry spinels like I don't
10:21know I know a lot of people who just
10:23wear spinels and CU When you know about
10:26gemstones you just learned that spinels
10:28are great mhm yeah absolutely spinels
10:31are great and they have a little bit of
10:33a wider range than like other Stones
10:35versus like turmalin I feel it's like
10:36Sapphire spanel turmalin they all have
10:39their own color palette so it's very
10:41nice yeah it is funny though how the the
10:45demand will drive the market
10:48price well the the gray spinels the I
10:52mean they use not even to cut them when
10:55I was in in Bangkok in 2017 I was
10:59learning how to cut gemstones and I went
11:01to have lunch with a supplier and I was
11:03telling him that I was on my way to buy
11:06synthetic stones to like practice how to
11:09cut and he's like no come to my office
11:11and he wanted to give me like reject you
11:13know like milky garnets or stuff and
11:16stuff that he wasn't going to cut that's
11:18just like in a drawer and he pulls this
11:21big bag of Grace panels and he's like oh
11:24well actually that sells now but you it
11:26would go in like the discard f and then
11:29it became super trendy and they cut them
11:31and now they're they're similar price
11:34like for gray Stones they're never that
11:37the most expensive but they're similar
11:40to to some Sapphires and and
11:44because it just became really popular
11:47yeah very cool so yeah it's it's all
11:51about supply and
11:53demand all right now that we touched on
11:55colors let's touch on price points and
11:57we're going to go over all the different
11:58colors so make sure you stay
12:06tuned um so we're going to start with
12:08the red
12:09spanel so we're approximately 1 karat
12:13range I'm going to give you some price
12:16in red spanel and in Ruby so you guys
12:19can kind of compare so the one karat red
12:24spinel is going to be maybe like a
12:26really I'm always talking really high
12:28quality so very like eye clean good
12:30color good cut it's going to be maybe
12:333,000 4,000 per carrot if you go for the
12:38same in Ruby so heat treated will be
12:43around
12:446,000 and no heat will
12:48be can be around
12:5020K y you know your no heat Ruby might
12:55not look as good as a spinel yeah
12:59cuz that's that's how rubies are they're
13:02usually a little darker or more included
13:05not as crispy so I'm not rubies are
13:08great they're a great investment if they
13:10no heat and all but if that's like the
13:12red you like maybe you won't even fall
13:14in love with the Ruby maybe you'll just
13:17want to spinel Y and you can also you
13:19have like I guess for larger sizes it it
13:23it has a even bigger impact like in the
13:27purple in the Grays in the pink maybe
13:30not as much but for for red like a ruby
13:33like a pink sapphire 4 karat 2 karat
13:36there there's a big difference but not
13:39as much as a 2 Karat and a 4 karat Ruby
13:42so if you're looking at not even the
13:43same you know it's not like it's so the
13:47price per carrot becomes exponential and
13:49the weight also adds up but so you're
13:53not so if you want bigger Stone I think
13:55Fels will be even more of a different
13:59then for one carat and I find that when
14:02I'm looking at the spels they have
14:04almost a slight like orange undertone a
14:07lot of them which I really don't mind
14:09one has some some orange also it's like
14:12a warmer red rubies when they have this
14:16orange undertone they lose a lot of
14:18value cuz they're they kind of tend to
14:20look more brownish yeah if you can smash
14:22that like button subscribe it means more
14:25than the world to us it helps these
14:26small videos perform so thank you but in
14:29spels it's it's just like yeah and it's
14:34I mean it's I mean you can compare at to
14:38any extent but like they're they have
14:39just so much more life because they're a
14:41little bit brighter than than the rubies
14:43the rubies has a little bit more of like
14:44a blood color yeah all right and then so
14:49for pink see there's all different
14:53shades of pink but for again a one karat
14:57pink spanel is going to be 26 00 per
15:00carot think sa far is going to be maybe
15:02I would say approximately similar if
15:06it's heat treated in the one karat range
15:08not in the 2 Karat and more and but for
15:11no heat it it might set you back
15:144,000,000 a carat so if if we're in
15:19light pink for for darker pink the price
15:22for the spinal will go up and the price
15:23for the sappire too but I think light
15:25pink spinel sappire if the sappire is
15:28heat treated it's going to be a similar
15:30price range and then so purple panel so
15:35this is a big one but you have that's a
15:38saf but all type of shade so again more
15:42more blue more purple so Sapphire is
15:46going to be around 1,500 a carat and the
15:50sapphire will be at least the double no
15:53it's great the entire ranges that you
15:54can have it's a very feminine Stone all
15:56the different shades of pink yeah
15:59and in terms of um this also black we
16:02didn't touch on black really yeah black
16:05it's it's the same I mean as amst train
16:09it's it's very it's very common it's
16:11usually going to be like byproduct of
16:14other things that going like this is
16:16this is like um one almost one just over
16:19one karat and it's like
16:21$28 it's not expensive people will buy
16:24usually Black Diamond black spanel or
16:26black sapphire I personally prefer black
16:29spanel with black sapphire I prefer
16:31black spinel black black diamonds are
16:34like they have this like gray undertone
16:36or this like a met
16:38metallic luster this to me is more black
16:41this is like jet black yeah it's like
16:43onx but it's harder than onx it's got
16:46more luster we prefer carrying this and
16:49we didn't talk also about the cobal glue
16:52spel sappire not sappire Cobble blue
16:55spels because the pric is this is like
16:58for specialy St very intense collectors
17:01and there's like the price are just too
17:04crazy and they're never big so I I I
17:07don't I couldn't even tell you the price
17:09for a one carat they're always going to
17:10be 20 pointers stuff like that so but
17:13they're very very expensive they're the
17:15most expensive yeah are we talking like
17:18Alexandro prices or more more more oh W
17:21okay more more interesting I haven't
17:23seen one in person
17:25so very cool okay so those are the
17:28prices for very nice Stones because
17:30Benedict only has nice stones but
17:33obviously you know if you're going down
17:35in in Clarity in like sometimes there a
17:39little bit milkiness in in spinels
17:41obviously the price points are going to
17:42go down so what are the common things
17:44that you'll see in lower quality Stones
17:46they're going to be more included so
17:49like more milky
17:51or some more commercial good maybe
17:54little chips on the sides are not as
17:57well cut on honestly I think it's a
17:59stone that it's already not so expensive
18:03when it's nice I think it's worth
18:07investing in in cuz I would get like a
18:10nice spanel for the price of like a
18:12commercial grade Sapphire I would get
18:15the nice spinel I wouldn't get the
18:17commercial grade spinel but for sure the
18:20prices go down it's like you see the
18:22black spinel they're they're yeah
18:24they're basically worth nothing they're
18:26worth the The Cutting and the
18:27manufacturing they not worth the
18:30material but other than that some might
18:32be like opalescent like with the
18:35milkiness that can be fun and another
18:38thing is that the inclusions in natural
18:42Fels they're in the actual shape of how
18:45they grow y so you'll see little octron
18:49just floating in your stone under the
18:51microscope or under the loop mm so even
18:54the inclusions are fun yeah yeah and
18:58yeah so sometimes you can have a little
19:00Cloud sometimes you can have just like
19:03overall milkiness but I think it's worth
19:06investing on it a nice I mean yeah
19:08always I think so for sure so in terms
19:13of the origin spinels come a little bit
19:15from all around the world are there some
19:17main hubs that have main colors or
19:20anything notable yes there's Burma that
19:24has those like really bright so Reds and
19:27pink Tanzania will have some of the
19:30Grays the pink and the purple you'll
19:34have them in Sri Lanka they have spels
19:37they have spels so I said Tanzania Burma
19:40Vietnam yep there's a lot of producing
19:43countries but I would say the
19:45most the I mean Burma is going to have
19:50the it's kind of like Colombian emeralds
19:52or ber Ruby they're going to be the
19:55nicest one and they they tend to produce
19:58very very high quality but Tanzania I've
20:00seen I mean these ones this is from
20:02Tanzania this is from Burma so it's very
20:06similar material but I think burmes kind
20:10kind of come with a premium okay and are
20:13any of them ethically sourced I think
20:15there have some mines in Vietnam
20:17probably yeah yeah yeah okay interesting
20:25awesome let's go into the synthetics and
20:28IM ations because obviously this is a
20:30very beautiful gemstone there are always
20:32going to be imitations on the market so
20:35don't get duped I would say like on the
20:38natural side of stones there's no
20:42imitation more maybe like confusion cuz
20:45you're not going to try to imitate a
20:49spinel with a ruby even though but so
20:52but it could be confused with some
20:54garnets some talin can have similar
20:57colors
20:59it's not quite the color of ametist but
21:01are you going to say that you know
21:03Sapphire is an imitation of spel to me
21:05it's it's more like confusion and
21:08similar similar material so they are
21:10synthetics yeah there's synthetic spinel
21:13it's been used for quite quite some time
21:16now they do the very crazy blue they do
21:20a lot of light blue they'll do a lot of
21:23colors that sometimes you think you have
21:25a synthetic and it's it's spel do some
21:28duets with spanel it's pretty common but
21:32it's very easy to
21:35identify okay yeah okay it's it has a
21:38different refractive index when you put
21:40it under the polariscope you have some
21:44like crazy reaction there's like a lot
21:46of things that you can do it's it's
21:49fairly easy to detect but there's a lot
21:51of a color change synthetic spels that's
21:54very common oh yeah you'll see that for
21:56like Alexandri imitations but I mean
21:59look anytime you're buying like color
22:01change and there synthetics I feel like
22:02you can tell right away because the
22:04colors are just too
22:06intense and they change in like a weird
22:08way like usually I found that when you
22:11put you have to really be under
22:13incandescent and versus natural daylight
22:17yeah the change will change but in these
22:20synthetics they're always kind of
22:21changing like all the time I don't know
22:23if you've noticed that like they're
22:25always kind of in between so I don't
22:29know but always rely on gemologist
22:37okay all right so we're going to finish
22:39off with some treatments because like a
22:42lot of gemstones there are treatments
22:43there are few for spinel like a little
22:45bit of heating but there is also
22:48sometimes they do fracture filling with
22:50the commercial grade not so much for
22:53durability but more for the overall look
22:56so they'll oil them or put resin or and
22:59I'm guessing it's color to enhance the
23:01color mostly the clarity oh the clarity
23:04yeah yeah the clarity to just fill
23:07fractures and make the cracks well
23:10there's like a
23:11range but the the range is not usually
23:16disclosed so they'll just say like it's
23:18it's filled but let's say for emeralds
23:21you have oil but you can say it's minor
23:23oil it's moderate it's heavily oiled you
23:26have different so so rubies it can be
23:28worth nothing but it can also be like
23:31they will usually kind of process
23:33everything in some kind of filling so if
23:36there's no cavities then it doesn't come
23:38in but there's different grade it
23:40doesn't mean that it doesn't mean that
23:43it's like all of that it just depends on
23:45how much fractures there's there in the
23:48stone and that reaches the surface but
23:51also fairly easily um detectable with
23:54the microscope you'll see bubbles or
23:56you'll see the difference
23:59in ler on the surface that's how you see
24:02to what extent it it was filled okay cuz
24:06sometimes they're just like even in in
24:09very expensive ruby you'll just have
24:11like traces cuz if there's a cavity then
24:14it just kind of went there but it didn't
24:16go inside all the way in
24:19okay all right guys if you guys have any
24:22questions or comments do leave them down
24:24below if you guys are looking for a
24:26custom engagement ring or to design
24:28something spel do send me a DM my links
24:30are down below and uh thank you so much
24:32for doing this with us we'll see you
24:34next time bye

YTUVI05 Изумруд

99% изумрудов с маслом. Colombia vs Zambia. Как читать treatment-строку сертификата.

Полный idea-файл (концепт, hook, b-roll, references)

Изумруд — трещины, облагораживание, сертификация

Concept

Изумруд — самый «проблемный» из большой четвёрки (ruby/sapphire/emerald/diamond). Почти 100% камней на рынке облагорожены маслом/смолой, и зритель должен понимать, что это норма, а не обман — если только это корректно указано в сертификате. Делаем выпуск, в котором честно объясняем: как живёт реальный изумруд, что означают уровни обработки (minor/moderate/significant), почему колумбийский Muzo/Chivor дороже замбийского, и как не купить «подсохший» камень, где масло уже ушло.

> ⚠️ Depth status: На kickoff-встрече 2026-04-21 Наталья только кратко коснулась изумруда — «любимейший камень всех времён», «отдельно изумруд, а отдельно все бериллы». Глубокий материал (конкретные месторождения, легенды, insider-истории, индекс цен) собирается отдельной prep-сессией под этот выпуск. Пока в файле — теоретическая основа.

Structure (канальная формула)

1. Hook — «Почти каждый изумруд в мире облагорожен. И это нормально. Но только если написано в сертификате.»

2. Geology — берилл Be₃Al₂Si₆O₁₈ + Cr/V, ключевые месторождения: Colombia (Muzo, Chivor, Coscuez), Zambia (Kagem), Brazil, Afghanistan, Ethiopia.

3. Свойства — jardin (включения-«сад»), слабая прочность на скол, показатель преломления, фильтр Chelsea (история).

4. Как определяют месторождение — Colombia vs Zambia по включениям, trace elements (LA-ICP-MS) и типу матрицы.

5. Облагораживание — cedar oil (классика), Opticon/Araldite (полимеры), как это маркируют (F1/F2/F3, minor/moderate/significant).

6. Рынок / аукционы — Rockefeller Emerald, Colombian no-oil ультра-премиум, как «unoiled» работает на цену.

7. Как читать сертификат — уровень обработки, тип наполнителя, последствия (камень может «подсохнуть» и трещины станут видны).

8. Вынос — что спрашивать у продавца (дата re-oiling, лабораторный отчёт), кого смотреть/читать.

Key Points

  • Jardin — не дефект, а identity изумруда.
  • Masło/смола — стандартная практика, но обязана быть раскрыта в сертификате.
  • «Unoiled emerald» с лабораторным подтверждением = резкая премия к цене.
  • Колумбийские изумруды — эталон цвета, у Zambia — чище, но цвет холоднее.
  • Re-oiling — нормальная сервисная процедура у ювелира.

Hook Ideas

  • «99% изумрудов в мире — с маслом. Вот почему это нормально.»
  • «Камень, который сохнет. И о чём не скажет вам продавец.»
  • «Колумбия или Замбия — где реально растёт лучший изумруд?»

B-Roll / Visuals

  • Макро: колумбийский vs замбийский изумруд, видно «jardin»
  • Схема: масло в трещине под УФ-светом (до/после)
  • Страница сертификата с выделенной строкой Treatment: F1/F2/F3
  • Карта: Muzo, Chivor, Coscuez, Kagem
  • Кейс Rockefeller Emerald (архивные фото / fair-use)

Открытые вопросы / research

  • Найти реальный образец до/после re-oiling для съёмки
  • Согласовать комментарий геммолога про тонкие отличия Chelsea-фильтра
  • Подготовить карточку-чеклист «что спрашивать при покупке изумруда»

References

  • GRS, SSEF, Gübelin — emerald treatment classification
  • Rockefeller Emerald auction record
  • Muzo Emerald Company — material о колумбийских шахтах

💬 Тезисы из встречи

17:39 · Наталья«Ещё и замород можно было бы, потому что это просто любимейший камень всех времён и народов.»

Референс-видео по теме

Three Precious Gems: Rubies, Emeralds, Sapphires
JTV · 46:47 · 1 329 228 views
Наталья: «А вот тут JTV — это прямо Ювелирочка в США (большой телемагазин)»
Transcript (1009 lines) — клик по тайм-коду открывает YouTube на нужной секунде
0:04rubies sapphires and emeralds they are
0:08the Holy Trinity of the most precious
0:09colored gemstones on earth the radiant
0:12hues of red green and blue are the
0:15finest Mother Nature has to offer for
0:17thousands of years pharaohs and
0:19Emperor's kings and queens have all
0:21coveted these beautiful lustrous gems
0:24the royalty the Maharajah's in India the
0:27royal families in England these people
0:29have always collected the gemstones
0:31because it was not just a sign of wealth
0:33they considered it a sign of power these
0:36three gemstones are true miracles of
0:38nature and are rarer even than diamonds
0:40they're timeless beauty inspires love
0:43passion and loyalty and with proper care
0:46their durability ensures that they can
0:49be handed down from generation to
0:51generation join us as we travel to
0:53remote mining towns visit the world's
0:56finest gem cutters and discover the
0:58secret world of these three precious
1:01gems
1:31throughout the ages rubies sapphires and
1:35emeralds have been coveted by mankind
1:37along with diamonds they are the
1:40ultimate symbols of wealth power and
1:42prestige during the Middle Ages they
1:45were known as the cardinal gems for
1:47their extensive use in the clergies most
1:49precious ceremonial objects crucifixes
1:52rings and amulets all bore these gems as
1:55symbols of virtue and piety over the
1:58centuries the big stones are probably
2:01the emerald ruby sapphire and diamond
2:03mostly its due to their the fact that
2:06they come out of the earth or a natural
2:08product and and they possess a certain
2:12amount of beauty rubies sapphires and
2:15emeralds are highly valued for three
2:17reasons one they are durable they are
2:21among the hardest substances found on
2:23earth - they are rare found in such
2:27limited amounts that throughout history
2:29only the very wealthy have been able to
2:31afford them and three they are beautiful
2:35the most notable trait of any gemstone
2:37is its color and no color is as vibrant
2:41or as vivid as the red hue that emanates
2:44from a ruby like flames from a fire
2:46rubies are considered to be by some to
2:51be the most valuable gem of all and it's
2:57probably because it is so rare and it is
3:03the such a striking color for much of
3:07recorded history rubies were valued more
3:10highly than diamonds they look to the
3:14heavens there and they saw the Sun and
3:16they attributed a ruby to the Sun and in
3:19India ruby is called Raja Raja the king
3:21of gems rubies were also thought to help
3:24with a range of physical ailments Ruby
3:27for example is has been associated with
3:29blood for
3:31thousands of years redstone's color
3:34blood were very often connected to
3:36therapeutic beliefs and and cures for
3:40various things early civilizations
3:43believe the stones would restore youth
3:44and vitality have rubbed on the skin and
3:47if worn into battle as some brave
3:49warriors did they were thought to bestow
3:52invulnerability once rubies were
3:55introduced to Europe in the early Middle
3:57Ages royal families clamor to own as
3:59many of the red gems as they could but
4:02until the 18th century all red gems were
4:05considered rubies thousands of years ago
4:07they had no way to identify gemstone
4:09otherwise by its color so if it was red
4:11it was a ruby it's green it's an emerald
4:14if it's blue
4:15it's a sapphire we didn't they didn't
4:17know about all the different minerals
4:19red spinel and red garnet were often
4:21mistaken for rubies in fact it wasn't
4:24until 1783 the chemical differences
4:27between the gems were discovered the
4:29most famous case of mistaken identity is
4:31of the black Prince's ruby in the
4:35British crown jewels and one of the
4:38Crown's has a very large egg size red
4:44stone that was called the black prince
4:46ruby wars were fought for this Ruby
4:49except it wasn't a ruby when the gem was
4:53I examined Gemological II for the first
4:57time in its history by the gem testing
4:59laboratory in London they took this Ruby
5:04they discovered it is not Ruby it is red
5:07spinel nevertheless the 170 carrot gem
5:11still proudly rests on the cross pattée
5:14of England's Imperial state crown
5:17roofies weren't the only gemstones
5:20believed to have been possessed of
5:21magical powers blue sapphires once
5:24symbolized divine favor purity and
5:27wisdom making them the favorite gemstone
5:30of religious leaders and Kings you know
5:33they always attributed power to the
5:35gemstones you know they they just felt
5:36that these had an influence over
5:38people's lives to to bring success to
5:41them and to kind of shun negativity so
5:43that's why they collected a lot of them
5:45in ancient India people believed the
5:48earth rested upon a giant sapphire whose
5:50Ray's colored the sky a brilliant blue
5:53sapphire is that blue of the ocean or of
5:56this of the heavens you know these these
5:59gemstones have these properties that are
6:01reminiscent of other aspects of nature
6:04while sapphires brought wisdom emeralds
6:07were thought to give the most desired
6:09gift of all life five thousand years ago
6:12the Egyptians discovered emeralds in the
6:15eastern mountains bordering the Red Sea
6:17they valued emeralds not only for their
6:19beauty but also as a source of eternal
6:22youth green gems were often associated
6:25with rebirth regrowth faithfulness
6:30Egyptian pharaohs were entombed with
6:33emeralds believing the gems would keep
6:35them young in the afterlife
6:37any places you can find emeralds they
6:38they they would have definitely been
6:40highly highly prized when Spanish
6:43conquistadors reached the new world in
6:45search of gold they were met by Incans
6:47heavily adorned with emeralds and other
6:49gems emeralds were sacred to the Incans
6:52the natives told the story about Indian
6:58king who was rich beyond belief and who
7:02used to make offerings into a lake his
7:06body was naked covered by turpentine and
7:10that covered by layers of gold dust and
7:14he would go to the lake and throw
7:16emeralds into the lake the story was
7:19just a legend but when the conquistadors
7:22returned to Spain they brought back so
7:24many emeralds
7:25their value plummeted the emeralds that
7:28came into to Spain in the in the 16th
7:36century they came in such great
7:38quantities that the price dropped for
7:41them
7:42the Spanish traded their newfound
7:43emeralds in India where they were in
7:45great demand by the Mughal Empire in the
7:48great period of the Maharajah's in the
7:51mogul period the finest gems found
7:56anywhere on earth found their ways to
8:00the Mogul ports mogul rulers in India
8:03and they would be bedecked with jewels
8:05they'd have you know their crowns honor
8:07their their top hats their with all
8:10kinds of rubies and sapphires and
8:12diamonds most of today's priceless
8:14rubies emeralds and sapphires are in the
8:17hands of the world's royal families and
8:19famous museums but these days it's not
8:22just royalty who own all the gems in
8:24smaller sizes almost anyone can acquire
8:28one of these coveted stones but to
8:30appreciate their beauty
8:31it takes an understanding of how they
8:34form
8:40gemstones form deep down inside the
8:43earth where magmatic and metamorphic
8:45processes take billions of years to
8:47shape them into crystals
8:48although rubies and sapphires look
8:51different they're essentially the same
8:53as magma cools within the Earth's crust
8:56aluminum and oxygen atoms crystallize to
8:59form clear corundum which is the base
9:01mineral for both gems rubies and
9:04sapphires of the same gemstone
9:06they're both corundum the only
9:09difference is the colouring agent trace
9:12amounts of iron and titanium makes
9:14sapphires blue and chromium makes rubies
9:16red but there can be several other
9:19colors as well
9:20sapphire can also be purple yellow pink
9:24can be orangey pink can be a whole
9:28variety of different mixtures rubies and
9:32sapphires are not only pretty they are
9:34also extremely durable on the Mohs scale
9:37of hardness corundum is a 9 second only
9:40to diamonds at 10 but the scale is
9:43relative diamonds are much harder than
9:45rubies and sapphires or any other
9:47natural substance known but rubies and
9:51sapphires are much harder than emeralds
9:53which have a hardness of 7 to 8 the
9:56durability of a gemstone is a direct
9:58result of how it forms the more violent
10:01the formation the more likely a gemstone
10:03will have inclusions and fractures and
10:05in some cases make the stone more
10:08brittle all colored gems fall into one
10:10of three formation categories in
10:13category 1 those gems
10:15form under the gentlest of geologic
10:18conditions then this category 2 they
10:21form under more difficult geologic
10:25conditions sapphires and rubies as
10:27products of volcanic activity are
10:29category 2 gemstones it's not uncommon
10:33to see inclusions within their crystal
10:34structures emeralds however fall under
10:37category 3 category three gemstones form
10:42under the most violent geologic
10:45conditions
10:46and because of the violent conditions
10:49under which they form they are more
10:51prone to have cracks and other features
10:56that are readily visible to the naked
10:58eye in most cases and mold is a classic
11:01example of this Emeralds are formed
11:04during intense tectonic activity for
11:06example when the Earth's crust folds and
11:09buckles to form a mountain range when
11:11this happens trace amounts of chromium
11:13or vanadium bond with the clear barrel
11:16silicate creating beautiful green
11:18crystals but when a mountain range is
11:21created a multitude of minerals are
11:23forced to mix together some of these
11:25minerals get inside the Emerald as it
11:27forms creating tiny but numerous
11:30inclusions emeralds have so many
11:32inclusions normally that a poetic way to
11:35define the inclusions is by calling them
11:39an emerald garden and an emerald garden
11:42may be formed by included crystals blast
11:45fractures which are also common within
11:48emeralds and in the gem trade are called
11:51feathers inclusions visible to the naked
11:53eye are accepted in emeralds which have
11:56the most inclusions of all gemstones
11:57those inclusions can also be considered
12:00the emeralds birthmarks identifying
12:02where it was formed it is possible to
12:05tell the origin of the emerald by
12:07looking at the inclusions the emeralds
12:12from Africa have tremolite needles which
12:19are an unfilled crystal the emeralds
12:24from Brazil may have biotite so all
12:28those are identifiers of origin and
12:34identifiers that the MLS actually a
12:37natural one it's virtually impossible to
12:39find an emerald without some internal
12:41defect but with all gemstones the higher
12:44the clarity the higher the value if you
12:47find an emerald for example that's
12:49typically included that is fairly free
12:53of inclusions well that's a very rare
12:54thing and the stunt would be quite
12:56valuable in rare cases specific
12:58inclusions inside an emerald will create
13:00desirable patterns raising the value
13:03exponentially these are called Trump
13:06Ichi emeralds and are only found in one
13:09small mountainous region of Colombia at
13:12repeat emerald is an emerald that has
13:18inside some pattern that resembles the
13:23spokes of a wheel and the card will
13:28pattern is formed by inclusions of
13:31graphite that follow planes within the
13:35emeralds the best for pg emeralds are
13:38deep green and have well-defined rays
13:40that meet perfectly in the center most
13:42people heard of it most Jim collectors
13:45or gemologist have never really seen it
13:47something that you open up your book on
13:49geology and there's the only true peach
13:51you've ever seen so to actually
13:53experience holding one and seeing one is
13:54amazing rubies and sapphires can also
13:57contain inclusions that result in rare
13:59desirable patterns those needles will
14:03produce shining lines of light that have
14:09a star pattern and you will obtain star
14:13rubies and a star sapphire the finest
14:16colors and most expensive star gems tend
14:19to come from India Sri Lanka and Burma
14:21color differences will affect the star
14:24will be your sapphire the same way they
14:25will affect the faceted ruby or sapphire
14:31or a regular cabochon but the intensity
14:35of the star on top of that
14:38has to be added to the mix and very few
14:41people I know can afford a star ruby or
14:44a star sapphire that is truly
14:47transparent with an incredible color
14:49with an incredible star because they are
14:52so incredibly rare if you can have a
14:54stone that has a perfect star in the
14:56center it's priceless literally
14:59priceless the largest blue sapphire ever
15:01found is the star of india unearthed in
15:04sri lanka more than 300 years ago it
15:07weighs a massive 563 carats six milky
15:11Ray's point outwards from the center
15:13inside a deep blue dome today it's in
15:17the collection of the Museum of Natural
15:18History in New York City gemstones of
15:22such elegance are extremely rare but one
15:25thing is for sure wherever gems are
15:27found there are people who will spend
15:29their lives digging them out so the rest
15:31of us can enjoy them gemstones are found
15:39in geological pockets all over the world
15:41usually in very remote and rugged
15:43locations sapphires come from Sri Lanka
15:47India and Burma to name a few places but
15:50the largest sapphire field in the world
15:52is in central Queensland Australia the
15:56Aniki field covers an area of almost 350
15:59square miles since the 1870s dark blue
16:02sapphires have been found here but green
16:05yellow and even pink varieties are also
16:08common 50 million years ago massive
16:11volcanic activity rained down corundum
16:13crystals and other gem bearing rock
16:15across the area on the line just on the
16:18Tropic of Capricorn here it seems that
16:20the conditions away down the Earth's
16:22mantle when these when these volcanoes
16:24were exploding had the exactly the right
16:26ingredients for conditions in the rock
16:28to form the support over time more
16:31layers of volcanic Durden
16:33covered the wash the layer of ancient
16:35gravel where the sapphires are found
16:37Peter Brown lives in the township of
16:40ruby vale where he's been mining Aniki
16:42sapphires for over 30 years
16:45iseman the decomposed granite we've got
16:48a layer of gravel and rocks and then we
16:52go up to sandy layers and that here this
16:54riverbed where ancient River be able to
16:56lay down something like 15 million years
16:58ago you can imagine the sapphires or
17:00blasted air the volcanoes dumped on the
17:03surrounding landscape with a few
17:04kilometres around here and then with
17:06these massive rains washed into these
17:09valleys and then charged down these
17:12valleys are some more like big big mud
17:15flows with rocks and gravel sort of like
17:18you see coming out of a concrete mixer
17:20like more gravelly sort of wash and the
17:22heavy sapphires and iron stone get
17:25caught up and we're looking for those
17:27rich little areas the mining process is
17:30hard work but fortunes have been made
17:32out here I mean they have to clean over
17:34after a big dam for one day just to go
17:37spec in what we call walk around looking
17:39on the ground and just picked up a 40
17:41carat rough on you go out there and just
17:44wander around the bush and you can have
17:46a chance of picking up a stone or they
17:48say you know or come to the Sapphire
17:50future could stub your toe on a fortune
17:51in another part of the Aniki field Ray
17:54Richardson runs one of the few
17:55commercial mining operations we've been
17:58mining this area for about three years
18:01we done extensive drilling through this
18:04new area and found this new deposit of
18:06sapphires here sapphires are not
18:09typically found in a host rock like
18:10diamonds they are loose and occur
18:13randomly once found they need to be
18:16separated from other minerals in mining
18:18operations like Richardson's excavators
18:21dig down to the wash and remove the gem
18:23bearing dirt then it's transported to
18:26the wash plant for closer inspection
18:27goes through the procedure of washing it
18:30and goes through a trauma which sizes
18:32the material we only wash up to 15
18:37millimeters over that because in this
18:39area there's not a lot of big sapphire
18:41so the rest of its discharged absolutely
18:44trommel and then inside the trommel it's
18:47all scrubbed and Holly water pressure
18:49hits it him there and cleans it all up
18:50and from there goes through the pulse
18:52eiders and that's what catches the
18:55sapphires the sapphires are collected in
18:57buckets which Ray takes home for sorting
18:59with a magnetic separator and as the
19:02material travels at along the shuttle
19:04conveyor belt the join Stein sticks to
19:06it and gets dragged back underneath and
19:08the sapphires and any other material
19:10ports and stuff like that goes forwards
19:13course fault into the front bucket the
19:15rough sapphires are separated by hand
19:17from any other materials and then
19:19further sorted for size and color then
19:22it's off to Bangkok for cutting we cut
19:25them into eight or ten different shapes
19:27and sizes emerald cut I get lucky oval
19:32round princess square trilliant first
19:37any shape and in all the sizes from ten
19:40millimeters up to six or eight
19:41millimeters so all shapes all sizes once
19:45the stones are cut they're calibrated
19:46for size and sent to jewelers around the
19:49world
19:51Aniki may be the largest sapphire field
19:54in the world but it's no longer the most
19:56prolific the majority of high-quality
19:58blue and fancy colored sapphires are now
20:01being discovered in even more exotic
20:03locations the main supplier sapphires in
20:07the world at the moment are coming from
20:08places like Madagascar are very bright
20:11bright blue and very well sought after
20:14on the market in 1998 significant
20:17deposits of high-quality corundum were
20:20found in the town of Allah cacao the
20:22discovery sparked a mining frenzy
20:24swelling the population from 40 people
20:27to thousands of hopeful prospectors the
20:30African island is only 225,000 square
20:33miles but it's a gemologist dream come
20:36true Madagascar is like one of these
20:38great treasure troves that has really
20:40hit the scene in the last decade
20:42producing new gemstone after new
20:45gemstone located on the gem saturated
20:48mozambique orogenic belt
20:50emeralds garnets tourmaline x' crystal
20:53barrels alexandrite x' aquamarines and
20:56sapphires are all found here but the
20:59most recent discovery was in 2001 when
21:02rubies were found in the sprawling
21:04shanty town of more manga so you tend to
21:06have rubies found in in places that are
21:09associated with mountain chains so the
21:12kinds of places that rubies are mined
21:15are often for quite inhospitable that
21:19the environment is difficult here mining
21:25methods are rudimentary at best hand
21:27digging shafts and panning in the
21:29streams is as technical as it gets but
21:32it means everyone rich or poor can join
21:35in you see these people worked so hard
21:38digging in there with primitive tools
21:40and this is the way it is it's the same
21:42process now as it was thousands of years
21:45ago everywhere in between
21:47the same process of these groups of
21:51people in there digging in these little
21:53pits in these mining areas and hopefully
21:55finding something not so easy it's not
21:59mechanized in the same way as diamond
22:01mining or summer gold mining it's still
22:05a hit and miss you could be 10 feet off
22:09you could be 6 feet off and not even
22:12find the vein and it's very risky and so
22:17it takes a lot of work on the muddy
22:19banks of streams locals work in small
22:21teams to collect and pan through buckets
22:23of Ruby rich dirt nearby men are digging
22:27holes 8 feet down and 2 feet wide when
22:30they reach the wash level they dig the
22:33dirt out laterally with picks and
22:34shovels it's tough work for hopes of a
22:37big payoff rough stones are cleaned and
22:41brought into the town where the town's
22:42folk lend a hand sorting them into piles
22:44of color and size Malagasy rubies tend
22:47to be purplish red to very dark red and
22:50are generally quite small however some
22:53areas have produced rough transparent
22:55crystals yielding faceted pieces as
22:57large as 12 carats
22:59these specimens usually contain
23:01inclusions of zircon or root till find
23:04quality Ruby in large sizes is very hard
23:06to come by in such a gem rich area it's
23:09a wonder there are no large commercial
23:11operations but the terrain discourages
23:14any large machinery from being brought
23:16in Madagascar is really rough it's
23:20really rough and when people think rough
23:22this is like really rugged to go there
23:25to get to more manga from the capital of
23:28a ton on areevo it's a day of driving
23:31followed by a full day of bushwhacking
23:33through the dense jungle these stones by
23:36and large come from very remote and
23:38exotic areas places like the Andes
23:41Mountains in South America and Colombia
23:44Madagascar Mozambique Burma Sri Lanka
23:47they're very remote a lot of times in a
23:50jungle region foreign gem dealers who
23:53come to Madagascar do not venture into
23:55the remote mining towns instead they
23:59work from trading Hut's that are
24:00established in major townships like on
24:02De La Mina miners from more manga and
24:05other boom towns trek in and out daily
24:08trading gems for cash but Madagascar
24:12isn't the only country blessed with such
24:14a dizzying array of treasures tucked
24:16away in the hills of eastern Brazil lies
24:19the bustling town of Nova era mining for
24:22emeralds began here in the 1960s with no
24:25signs of slowing down
24:26I've been in the mines in Brazil that
24:29emerald mines in Brazil we're seeing the
24:32schist come out of the ground the dirt
24:34coming out of the ground and you see
24:36emerald crystals this is just like fresh
24:39out of the ground like that it's pretty
24:40amazing
24:41Antonio Raimundo dos Santos works a mine
24:43outside Nova era
24:45it's a typical setup workers are lowered
24:48down a narrow shaft on a makeshift
24:50wooden seat 300 feet below a low ceiling
24:53tunnel fitted with cart tracks awaits
24:55light bulbs are strung along one side to
24:58provide light for the worker
24:59whoo tamp sticks of dynamite into the
25:01walls it's muddy dark and dangerous we
25:05find the veins then we detonate them and
25:08after you finish detonating them you
25:10check to see if there is anything and if
25:13there is the guys gather them and bring
25:15them up here up on the surface other
25:18workers winch cauldrons of dirt up from
25:20below and empty them onto the ground
25:22rocks are divided up by size for sorting
25:25it's extremely physical work but when a
25:28330 carat rough emerald like this one is
25:31unearthed fatigue gives way to
25:32jubilation all the guys get really
25:36excited holy Mary it is such a joy to
25:39everybody all the workers mainly the
25:41owner he gets really excited when he can
25:44get it it is such a joy to use it is
25:46victory along the outskirts of Nova era
25:49the mine also employs people to pan for
25:52emeralds I find a lot today it is hard
26:03work to keep bending down and
26:05straightening up at night it is not fun
26:07the rough crystals are collected and
26:09transported to towns such as Nova era
26:11for inspection grading and cutting like
26:18diamonds rubies sapphires and emeralds
26:20are graded on the four C's color clarity
26:23cut and carat weight but unlike diamonds
26:27there's only one C that really counts
26:29color in the world of colored stones
26:32color is the most important thing so if
26:38you have a ruby or an emerald whatever
26:42that is exceptional color that's the
26:48most important thing and other factors
26:50become less important gemstones come in
26:53every color of the spectrum but rubies
26:56sapphires and emeralds have set the
26:58standard for the very best hues of red
27:00blue and green being able to see a
27:03slight difference in shade it for
27:06instance in a in a Burma Ruby can make
27:08the difference between a ruby that's
27:10$500 a carat or $5,000 a carat
27:13everything else is equal and subtle
27:16shades are worth a great deal of money
27:19because Mother Earth doesn't make that
27:21shade of color combined with that
27:23clarity combined with that size very
27:26often so it's a it's a it's an indicator
27:28of rarity and it really indicates the
27:31value of the gemstone colors everything
27:32in colored stones when devaluating color
27:35there are three things to consider hue
27:38tone and saturation with gems or with
27:42anything that we judge color with we're
27:44judging hue which is red and we're
27:47judging tone which is in the gem world
27:50is created from 1 to 10 so going from
27:53basically a light light almost colorless
27:56to a dark almost black and Gray's in
27:59between and then we have saturation and
28:01the saturation would be the amount of of
28:04actual color that exists to the average
28:07person one emerald might look the same
28:09as the next but in the eyes of a gem
28:12connoisseur the slightest degree of
28:14contrast in tone or saturation can alter
28:17the gems value dramatically it really is
28:20one of the one of the areas where
28:22technology has not replaced expertise
28:25personal expertise I think it would be
28:28akin to someone that's an art
28:30connoisseur someone that's at the top of
28:31their game in the art world you can't
28:34expect a machine to look at a painting
28:36and know what that person knows from
28:39their experience
28:39it's very similar with gemstones find
28:42Colombian emeralds for example are
28:44bright green with a very faint hint of
28:46blue earning top dollar per carat on the
28:48market while Zambian emeralds are deep
28:50bluish green with exceptionally high
28:53clarity and some Brazilian specimens are
28:55green that's slightly tinted with yellow
28:58Burmese rubies are so superior in color
29:00they're known as Burma red and are
29:03likened to the color of pigeons blood at
29:05market they can fetch twice as much as
29:08any other color of
29:09Ruby's just term pigeon blood red which
29:13is not really a technical term more of a
29:15more of a marketing term it just it's
29:17it's come to mean the best color of red
29:20that can be found in rubies some gems
29:22have more than one color which also
29:24affects grading anisotropic gemstones
29:28when the light splits in two rays and
29:33follows different directions the
29:36absorption and therefore the color of
29:40CERN in each one of those directions may
29:42be different and there are gemstones
29:46that may show two colors in a sapphire
29:50one angle might show a vivid blue but
29:53turn it over and it might have a purple
29:55or green in it some rubies show
29:57different Reds at different angles it is
30:00in the skill of the cutter again two
30:03before deciding how he or she is going
30:06to cut the stone to orient it so that it
30:11will show the best color face up light
30:13source can also affect the color you see
30:15in a stone color trueness and different
30:18types of light affects the desirability
30:20of a stone and therefore its value a
30:23beautiful blue in all lighting
30:25environments can cause a stone to sell
30:28for much more than one that looks
30:30fabulous in this light but then you go
30:32inside and it's it's more purpley blue
30:36trace elements inside gems create
30:38dazzling colors but too much of an
30:41element can cause a myriad of other
30:43problems unfortunately with emeralds and
30:45rubies very often the element or the
30:49trace impurity that gives it the color
30:51the fine color which is usually chromium
30:54is the same element that stresses the
30:57stone during formation atoms of chromium
31:00replace atoms of aluminum of the host
31:02crystal for both rubies and emeralds
31:05once the gem is unearthed the chromium
31:08absorbs all the wavelengths of light
31:10except those we perceive as either red
31:12or green but too much chromium will make
31:15the Ruby or emerald brittle and it can
31:18break
31:19it's a double-edged sword when you're
31:20dealing particularly it seems with
31:22chromium chromium again can also be a
31:24growth inhibitor for Ruby that's why
31:26it's very rare to see two three four
31:30karat Jimmy transparent vivid red rubies
31:34they're yielding prices now hundreds of
31:38thousands of dollars per carat right now
31:40because of that factor Ruby's very
31:43unique when you compare it to a lot of
31:45other gemstones the carat weight of
31:47colored gemstones is also important but
31:49often misunderstood the the actual
31:52weight of diamond for example is lighter
31:56than Ruby and Sapphire and heavier than
32:00an emerald so if you had three stones
32:03that all weighed one carat a one carat
32:07Ruby a one carat emerald and one carat
32:09diamond and they were all cut in the
32:11exact same shape and the same
32:13proportions the ruby or sapphire would
32:17look almost 25% smaller than the diamond
32:21and the emerald will look larger than
32:24the diamond no matter what the carat
32:26weight an expert cut can add tremendous
32:28value to any sized gem it's what makes
32:31the stone come to life color gems are
32:34usually mined in one country and are
32:36sent to another for cutting Thailand's
32:38tradition of cutting sapphires and
32:40rubies dates back centuries
32:41a lot of the sapphire and Ruby are cut
32:44in Thailand but there are cutting
32:47centers all over the world but the bulk
32:49of those will be cut in those areas in
32:51the case of emeralds Brazil is one
32:53country that has become known for both
32:55its rich mines and highly skilled
32:57cutters in the town of Nova era lapidary
33:01Sala Miranda cuts up to a dozen emeralds
33:04a day
33:07have a nightmare my favorite stone to
33:09work and cut is the Emerald because I
33:13was practically born in an emerald site
33:16here
33:18emerald cutting techniques are passed
33:19down from generation to generation my
33:26uncles and parents worked with the
33:28Emerald so this is a stone I've always
33:32been around since I was little and I
33:35learned how to cut emeralds are so
33:37difficult to cut
33:38Salo must consider many factors before
33:41starting work on a new piece of rough
33:51for you to start cutting a stone you
33:54will weigh it to see how you will use
33:55the stone and then you will see where
33:58you will saw if you have inclusions
34:01where you will draw the saw to see the
34:04position you will form you have to
34:07analyze the position of color the
34:10crystallization for you to give its
34:13shape of all the shapes into which an
34:16emerald is cut there is one that is by
34:18far the most popular in fact it's named
34:21after the gem the emerald cut it gets
34:24its name because the shape of the
34:26crystal the emerald crystal itself lends
34:29itself to that shape you can almost see
34:32a box inside a box inside a box and it
34:35creates can create a very lively stone
34:39the emerald is a stone that you cannot
34:42waste a good stone must be used to its
34:46maximum so that you can earn more in
34:48terms of carats in fact most of the time
34:52colored gems are cut to emphasize or
34:54highlight their natural crystal
34:56structure sapphires and rubies because
34:58of the way the rough occurs are usually
35:02cut in what we call a cushion cut which
35:04is sort of them think of a cushion as a
35:06round with squared corners or square
35:09with rounded corners after gemstones are
35:13cut they are often treated to enhance
35:15their natural character and beauty
35:17emeralds are typically treated with an
35:19oil or resin to fill fractures and hide
35:22surface imperfections emeralds are
35:24routinely oiled to enhance their beauty
35:27it's not improving their color it's
35:30improving the clarity and this is going
35:33back to the times of Cleopatra it's
35:35actually noted that emeralds were
35:37actually oiled to make them more
35:38beautiful so it is a very standard
35:41routine practice for emeralds by putting
35:44a colorless oil into those cracks it
35:49provides a medium through which the
35:50light now doesn't stop and get scattered
35:53it travels through so it eliminates that
35:55whitish
35:56so you can actually more accurately and
35:59precisely grade the most important
36:02factor affecting the value the color but
36:06oiling emeralds is just one age-old
36:08treatment sapphires and rubies benefit
36:11from heat treatment inside the earth
36:13extremely high temperatures are crucial
36:15to gemstone formation so heat treatment
36:18is like a continuation of that natural
36:20process in Queensland Australia where
36:24the majority of sapphires are dark inky
36:26blue Peter Brown uses heat to treat
36:28rough crystals in his lapidary workshop
36:30so these are sapphires that have decided
36:32need the heat treatment to lighten some
36:34of them and then to take the silk out of
36:36some of the other ones all the different
36:38colors we put them in a little sapphire
36:42crucible or corundum crucible and then
36:50they go into the oven which is a heat
36:53treating process that goes up to 1400 to
36:561600 degrees Celsius over an eight-hour
36:59period so they reach the maximum
37:00temperature for maybe an air and they
37:02cool down so it's an overnight process
37:04in the oven a special computer program
37:07controls internal temperatures inside
37:09the oven if the critical temperature is
37:11not maintained during the heating
37:13process the sapphires can crack the
37:16inclusions will heat up and expand at a
37:21different rate than the Ruby that holds
37:25them or the Sapphire that hold them and
37:27that may cause the inclusions to open up
37:33fractures within the Ruby
37:37although heat treatment of gemstones is
37:39common practice it can affect price and
37:42should always be disclosed at the point
37:44of sale fine quality untreated sapphires
37:47rubies and emeralds are very rare
37:49command much higher prices and should
37:52always come with a gem testing report as
37:54gemologist we have to be able to
37:56identify if a gem stone has been treated
37:59because so many gemstones are treated
38:02today
38:03these days it's exceptionally rare to
38:05find a beautiful faceted ruby sapphire
38:07or emerald that is untreated without
38:10modern-day heat treatment none of us
38:11would have a job in the jewelry industry
38:13there would not be enough rubies and
38:15sapphires to meet any of the demand that
38:18exists on earth today one reason that
38:20you can go in a jewelry store in any
38:22major city in the world and buy colored
38:25stone jewelry with rubies and sapphires
38:27is because modern-day heat-treatment
38:29rubies and unheated rubies and unheated
38:32sapphires are so rare without that only
38:34the wealthiest people on earth could
38:36afford them so if a buyer wants a stone
38:38of hide color and clarity with fewer
38:40zeros on the price tag a heat-treated
38:43ruby or sapphire is a fantastic and
38:45affordable choice
38:52the elements minerals and geological
38:55conditions required to form gemstones so
38:57rarely occur together within nature
38:59it's a miracle gemstones form at all
39:02current deposits will only get smaller
39:04as they are mined and once a deposit is
39:07completely gone
39:08new deposits may never be found my
39:11suggestion is if you see a nice don't
39:13get it because you never know where
39:16that's going to be in the future those
39:18pockets fry up emeralds especially are
39:21very rare and eventually the deposits
39:24will run out the highest quality
39:26sapphire deposit ever found has already
39:28disappeared which is greatly affected
39:31price most people have heard maybe of
39:34the name of Kashmir sapphires well they
39:36were discovered around 1900 in Kashmir
39:40India and within a very short period of
39:42time within two three years that mine
39:44was depleted but what it produced was
39:47some of the most spectacular
39:49world-famous sapphires that have never
39:52been seen again no other area in that
39:54region no other gemstone know whether
39:56sapphire deposit in the world has
39:58produced a sapphire of love that color
40:00or clarity or quality of all the colors
40:03of corundum available ruby red is by far
40:06the rarest fine quality rubies are
40:09steadily becoming scarce er although
40:11recent discoveries like the ones in
40:13Madagascar will help bolster the supply
40:15for a while the overall world supply
40:18will continue to diminish but recent
40:21scientific breakthroughs have offered an
40:23alternative in 1902 French chemist or
40:27ghost fern Oy perfected the flame fusion
40:30process a quick and easy way of creating
40:32synthetic gem balls or crystals flame
40:35fusion is a method that essentially
40:39smelting the chemical components that
40:43make corundum you have an oxygen
40:48hydrogen torch that is heating a chamber
40:51through which powder in the case of
40:56columbium aluminum oxide drops with the
40:59dopant of chromium or titanium and iron
41:03to give the color and that melt falls us
41:06droplet on a cylinder and it envelopes
41:09the cylinder and the cylinder is lowered
41:12as the bull grows within hours a
41:16synthetic Ruby or sapphire can be grown
41:18using flame fusion but there are
41:20disadvantages
41:21those are bulls are under stress because
41:27they crystallize pretty fast so
41:31typically they break in half lengthwise
41:35so the size the maximum size of the gem
41:38that you're going to get is given by
41:41half the size of the bull there are
41:44several other ways to create higher
41:45quality corundum one is flux growth
41:48which imitates metamorphic conditions
41:50inside the earth where gemstones formed
41:53naturally flux grown rubies and
41:55sapphires are very high quality and
41:58typically runs several hundred dollars
42:00per carat you can get fabulous color in
42:02a flawless gemstone and that color with
42:06that degree of flawlessness virtually
42:08never happens in mother nature if it
42:10does those are the gems that cost
42:12hundreds of thousands to millions of
42:15dollars but in a synthetic like a
42:17synthetic emerald you can have the best
42:19color imaginable in a totally flawless
42:21crystal which just doesn't happen in
42:23mother nature another method for
42:25creating almost flawless gems uses water
42:28other methods to make synthetic gems are
42:33hydrothermal methods where instead of
42:37using a melt the nutrients are dissolved
42:40in water solutions and
42:44the crystal growth from a seed so in
42:49some cases the seed can be still
42:53identified in the grown crystal and it
42:59is in the skill of the cutter not to use
43:01the portion of the crystal that has the
43:03seeds so that that is hidden
43:06both the flux and hydrothermal methods
43:09have produced beautiful gems but just
43:11like natural gems quality comes at a
43:14price
43:14the flux techniques and the hydrothermal
43:17techniques produce the more expensive
43:21type of synthetics because they more
43:24resemble the way in which nature works
43:27and take far more time whereas by flame
43:31fusions a bull can be grown in hours it
43:34may take you know months to grow
43:38hydrothermal gemstone some synthetic
43:43gems so perfectly mimic the real deal it
43:46can take a lot of effort to identify the
43:47differences I bought one of the finest 3
43:51karat Burma rubies in the world it was
43:54superb and I had a client that wanted to
43:57buy it but it was under the condition
43:59that it had a lab certificate with it
44:01saying that it was Burmese Ruby and it
44:03was natural I sent it off to the lab and
44:07he said he needed to have it for quite a
44:09while I asked him what the problem was
44:11and he said I'm having a tough time
44:13determining whether it's genuine or not
44:15now after you spend a lot of money and
44:18you hear that you really start to worry
44:19and he said we're gonna shoot an x-ray
44:22fluorescence spectrometer on that and
44:24see if we can determine if their trace
44:27minerals there that are found in Burma
44:29and sure enough after several days and
44:34me was sleepless nights I found out that
44:36it was in fact a natural gemstone but it
44:39took several people working at all the
44:41major labs to determine whether it was
44:45man-made or natural as major gem testing
44:48labs have developed new testing methods
44:50the line between natural and synthetic
44:52is less murky
44:54the greatest challenge for the synthetic
44:56industry has not been the manufacturing
44:58process it has been in gaining
45:00acceptance by gem connoisseurs who want
45:03to know their gemstone was formed
45:04naturally over billions of years with no
45:07help from man a gemstone synthetic is a
45:10gem that's been made in a laboratory
45:11that wasn't mined it wasn't made by
45:13Mother Nature deep within the earth 100
45:16million years ago it was made by a
45:18laboratory perhaps in China two weeks
45:22that's the difference but chemically
45:24optically and physically it is a ruby
45:26it's not a fake it is a ruby but what's
45:30a ruby like that worth compared to that
45:32million dollar Ruby that was found the
45:34best ruby found in the last five years
45:36at a mocha Burma that's the difference
45:38rubies sapphires and emeralds are
45:40considered precious because they are
45:42beautiful durable and most of all rare
45:45as time goes on scientists will likely
45:48continue to find more inexpensive and
45:50faster ways to recreate in the lab what
45:53mother nature took eons to produce but
45:56whether the product is of science or
45:58nature like the kings and Pharaohs of
46:01ancient times mankind will always value
46:04the alluring beauty and timeless
46:06elegance of a precious gem

⭐ YTUVI06 · Flagship — «How to Identify Gemstones» повторить 1-в-1 на RU

В дополнение к 5 тематическим выпускам — отдельный короткий выпуск по мотивам Gemstones channel. Наталья прямо назвала это видео как шаблон, который можно экранизировать «как есть», но на русском. Ниже — YouTube-карточка, таймкодовый transcript оригинала и точка входа для адаптации структуры.

Flagship · How to Identify Gemstones 1-в-1 RU

Короткий 5–8 мин пилот по прямой рекомендации Натальи. Снять в одну сессию.

Полный idea-файл (концепт, hook, b-roll, references)

Flagship · «How to Identify Gemstones» — повторить 1-в-1 на русском

Concept

Короткий выпуск-пилот (5–8 мин), который повторяет структуру референса Gemstones channel. Наталья прямо назвала это видео как шаблон, по которому «можно было бы повторить 1 в 1 на русском». Быстрый, плотный, объясняющий, универсальный для любого зрителя. Отлично работает и как самостоятельное видео, и как постоянная «базовая серия», куда в основных выпусках можно отсылать.

Формат отличается от 001–005: не глубокий часовой интервью-разбор, а короткий structured explainer. Потому это — не шестая тема, а другой тип контента, который задаёт альтернативный ритм канала.

Why this matters

  • Единственный референс из всех, где Наталья сказала «1-в-1». Это её инженерный сигнал: структура уже проверена, UX работает, надо только перевести и заменить камни на русские примеры.
  • Хорошая точка старта для канала: короткое видео → ниже порог просмотра → быстрее наберёт «насмотренность» у аудитории.
  • Даёт базовый vocabulary для 001–005 (плеохроизм, изотропность, шелк, звёздчатые эффекты и т.д.) — дальше в глубоких выпусках можно не останавливаться на определениях.

Reference structure (to replicate)

Оригинал — How to Identify Gemstones (Gemstones/JTV, 5:20, 162k views). См. transcript в YTUVI-S1 или Desktop/YTUVI/. Основные блоки:

1. Intro + why identification matters

2. Sight identification — цвет, прозрачность, игра

3. Tools: лупа 10×, рефрактометр, dichroscope, polariscope

4. Включения как подпись камня

5. Hardness scale как sanity-check

6. Когда надо в лабораторию

7. Outro

Adaptation to RU (draft)

  • Камни-примеры — взять из того, что есть у Натальи (loose stones она подтвердила)
  • Инструменты — показать реальную лупу, рефрактометр, dichroscope крупным планом
  • Легенды и «а ещё в XIX веке…» — вырезаем ради темпа
  • Продолжение: в конце видео ссылки на выпуски 001–005 как «хочешь глубже про рубин — сюда»

Key Points (must-have в RU-версии)

  • «Синий = сапфир, красный = рубин. Но у корунда бывает 12+ цветов — только синий "сапфир" по умолчанию.»
  • Плеохроизм: поворачиваем камень — меняется оттенок = корунд. Не меняется = может быть гранат / шпинель.
  • Изотропность (гранат, шпинель, бриллиант) vs анизотропность (корунд, изумруд) — простой тест на полярископе.
  • Шелк, рутил, jardin — «почерк» конкретного семейства.
  • Когда ты не можешь определить сам → лаборатория.

Hook Ideas

  • «За 5 минут — научу отличать рубин от граната без лабораторного отчёта.»
  • «5 инструментов, которые стоят $200 — и ты уже половину ювелирной витрины понимаешь.»
  • «Как отличить настоящий камень от нагретой подделки — на кухонном столе.»

B-Roll / Visuals

  • Лупа 10×, рефрактометр, dichroscope, полярископ — макро
  • Side-by-side: рубин vs гранат vs шпинель на поляризаторе
  • Плеохроизм: один камень с двух сторон
  • Таблица hardness scale — анимация
  • Inclusions: шелк, horsetail, jardin — микроскоп

Production notes

  • Снять в одну сессию с Натальей (loose stones + её инструменты — всё на руках)
  • Формат: максимум 8 мин, плотный voiceover, минимум «дрожания».
  • Референс-transcript vm1iN65V-A0 — использовать как монтажный скелет: по репликам оригинала → свой текст → свой кадр.
  • После съёмки — может стать «вечным» визитным видео канала (evergreen).

Reference quote from Natalya

> [из переписки] «Вот это прям вообще можно было бы повторить 1 в 1 на русском.»

References

⭐ FLAGSHIP · 1-в-1 на русском
How to Identify Gemstones
Gemstones · 5:20 · 162 708 views
Наталья: «вот это прям вообще можно было бы повторить 1 в 1 на русском»
Transcript (130 lines) — клик по тайм-коду открывает YouTube на нужной секунде
0:05and semi-precious gemstones wait how can
0:09you tell the difference between a
0:10precious and semi-precious gemstone
0:12anyways what do those terms even mean
0:15and how can someone spot the difference
0:17between garnet and spinel or topaz and
0:19tourmaline I'll teach you how to
0:21identify a gemstone in Mordor okay
0:24that's the last of lord of rings puns
0:25for today let's get this out of the way
0:28traditionally the precious gemstones are
0:31diamond emerald ruby and sapphire
0:33semi-precious gemstones are everything
0:36else is it just me or does this
0:37classification seem pretty arbitrary
0:40after all Ruby and Sapphire are
0:42technically the same gemstone corundum
0:44and emerald beryl is considered precious
0:47but other barrels like aquamarine aren't
0:49it gets even more dicey when you look at
0:52opal opal that exhibits play of color is
0:55called precious opal but it's not
0:56considered a precious gemstone what is
0:59going on here no two gems are the same
1:02and since the days of the Ancients
1:04humans have done our best to classify
1:06and categorize them the precious and
1:08semi-precious distinction goes back to
1:10the ancient Greeks but instead of
1:13blindly following tradition let's
1:15evaluate gems based on their own merits
1:17after all is it the world's finest
1:19Sunstone more precious than a low-grade
1:21fake for gem there's no Universal system
1:24for determining the value of a gemstone
1:26precious or otherwise from a seller's
1:29point of view gemstones price and value
1:32will generally be decided by color
1:34rarity and clarity they also look for
1:36defects in the stone its overall quality
1:39and of course in its beauty many
1:41gemstone buyers still adhere to the four
1:43C's when on the hunt for a good deal
1:46they know two gems cut the color clarity
1:48and carat weight but what if you're not
1:51out to buy a gem maybe you tripped over
1:54a pirate's treasure chest in your
1:56day-to-day adventures
1:58anyway you can identify which gems are
2:00which without the help of a professional
2:01like me before you start the first thing
2:05to do is clean your stone with a soft
2:07gem cloth this will remove dirt dust
2:10fingerprints oils lint and fairy
2:12droppings from your stones so you can
2:14get a proper look at it and once the gem
2:16is clean hold your stone with tweezers
2:18the ancients were right about one thing
2:20observing a gems color is the first and
2:23easiest clue when it comes to
2:24identifying a stone try to observe your
2:27gem with just your naked eye either in
2:29daylight or a very well-lit area color
2:32is the most obvious way to start
2:33identifying a gem or mineral after all
2:36if it isn't green it isn't an emerald
2:38and all rubies are red by definition hue
2:41is the overall color of a gem but be
2:44specific is it blue or blue green or
2:46greenish blue the more precise the
2:48better if the stone appears black and
2:51you suspect it might actually be a dark
2:53red green or blue you can shine a light
2:55through it to search for hard to see
2:57colors now you have to decide if your
2:59stone is transparent translucent or
3:01opaque Jade would be a translucent gem
3:04and onyx is opaque or transparent gems
3:07lads look to see if there's fire or
3:09dispersion if you see fire in your stone
3:12you might have a diamond or even a rare
3:15style right or demantoid garnet and this
3:17might be my favorite part bounce the
3:19stone in your palm a little bit to see
3:21how heavy or light it feels as an on the
3:24go test of specific gravity the next
3:26steps involve the light in the loop
3:28we're going to take a quick peek at
3:30optical phenomena and luster pass a
3:33light across the surface of the stone
3:35and check for color change
3:36asterism agile or essence venture
3:40essence and other special
3:41characteristics the light will also help
3:43you assess the gems luster which is how
3:46much light is reflected from the surface
3:47most gems have a vitreous luster like
3:50glass if your gem has a lower luster it
3:53may be dull waxy or earthy if it has a
3:56higher luster it may be adamantine if
3:58you notice any chips in the gem describe
4:01the surface on the inside of the chipped
4:03area - is it curved like a shelfs one
4:06tree like wood or granny likes and most
4:08gems show canoodle or she'll like
4:10fracture
4:11so more unusual fracture types can help
4:13you narrow down your possibilities
4:15assessment beyond this is where the big
4:17guns come in refractometer prices range
4:20from affordable to i need a government
4:22grant and determining a gemstones
4:25refractive index is one of the best ways
4:28to know for sure what you've got between
4:30your tweezers I try not to editorialize
4:32in these videos as much as I love my own
4:35opinions the facts are the facts but I
4:38think there's one very important
4:40question you should ask yourself when
4:41you're identifying and assessing
4:42gemstones
4:43it's a toughy the question that is do I
4:46think this specimen is beautiful or
4:49interesting hopefully the answer will be
4:51yes give me your best lord of the ring
4:53puns and jokes in the comments and don't
4:55forget to Like and subscribe for more
4:58information the topics we discussed
5:00today check out the links below thanks
5:02for watching

📚 Общая библиотека (инструменты, развлекательные форматы)

Референсы без привязки к конкретному камню — можно переиспользовать в Pillar 2/3 (инструменты, сравнения, развлекательные forматы).

Gem vs. Gem Death Match
Gemstones · 5:04 · 780 403 views
Наталья: «хотя вот повеселее))»
Transcript (131 lines) — клик по тайм-коду открывает YouTube на нужной секунде
0:00If you're a fan of Pokémon Go, I'm sure
0:02you know all about gym battles. It's
0:04where you take your little friends you
0:05captured against their will and make
0:07them fight each other. They gain skills,
0:09you level up, and it's an overall great
0:11time. Lucky for the Pokémon, they aren't
0:13actually real, so their enslavement is
0:15entirely fictional. And lucky for you,
0:17it's not 2016 and this isn't an episode
0:20about Pokémon. If you want to watch one
0:22of those, try this one. But we're not
0:24going to have gym battles, we're going
0:26to have gem battles.
0:35SEE, I HAD A PLAN THE WHOLE TIME. You
0:38shouldn't have doubted me. But before we
0:40keep going, I want to thank you guys for
0:41taking a moment to click on that bell so
0:44you know every time we release a new
0:46video. First in the octagon that I
0:49assume sits atop a brilliant cut stone
0:52are the mighty emerald and the awesome
0:54aquamarine. Both of these gems are
0:56varieties of beryl, which evens the
0:58playing field a bit. But there are a
1:00couple of key differences that may give
1:02one of the stones an advantage. The bold
1:05greeniness of emerald is certainly
1:07impressive and some might argue is more
1:09striking than the color of aquamarine. A
1:12famous Roman historian once said of
1:14emeralds, "Nothing greens greener." But
1:16the stone's toughness or resistance to
1:18breakage is generally less than that of
1:20aquamarine despite clocking in around an
1:22eight on the Mohs hardness scale. This
1:25also makes finding high clarity emeralds
1:27really challenging, which is why the
1:29purest of emeralds can be hecka
1:30expensive. Some unearths emeralds have
1:33exhibited a radial or spoke pattern
1:35called a trapiche emerald. While I'm not
1:38sure this gives the emerald a strategic
1:39advantage over aquamarine, it may make
1:42the opposing stone green with envy,
1:44which brings me to emerald's formidable
1:46crystalline opponent, aquamarine. The
1:48blue hue always comes from iron ions and
1:50its shade depends on whether it's iron
1:52two or combination of iron two and
1:55three.
1:56This gives the stone a strategic
1:57advantage over emerald. Though both
1:59stones are about an eight on the Mohs
2:01scale, aquamarine isn't nearly as
2:03brittle as emerald. So a swift kick to
2:05the girdle would do more damage to an
2:07emerald than an aquamarine. But a slight
2:10edge on strength isn't the whole
2:11picture. One could argue that this comes
2:14down to a beauty contest. While a
2:16faceted aquamarine is stunning, its
2:18color usually isn't as bold as a vibrant
2:20green emerald. If you want a blue that
2:22blues like emerald's green, you'll have
2:24to look beyond aquamarine. Wow, I turned
2:27into Dr. Seuss there for a second. Now,
2:29I'm not pooh-poohing on our friend
2:30aquamarine. The subtle hue of this stone
2:33is still striking. This is simply where
2:35gem battles get subjective. So let me
2:38know in the comments which gem you find
2:40superior. But that's not all, we
2:42actually have a triple threat match
2:44between diamond, quartz, and jade.
2:48There's an old saying amongst
2:49gemologists, "If you hit a diamond with
2:51a hammer, it'll shatter into a dozen
2:53pieces. Hit a piece of quartz with a
2:55hammer, it'll split in two. Hit a piece
2:57of jade with a hammer, it'll ring like a
2:59bell."
3:00Diamond gets a lot of credit for being
3:02the hardest gem, but if it's more prone
3:04to shatter, how's that possible? This
3:07comes down to a misunderstanding of the
3:09term hardness in gemology, which is what
3:11may give diamond's competitors an
3:13advantage. We saw this a little bit in
3:15the matchup between emerald and
3:16aquamarine, two stones of similar
3:18hardness, one being more brittle than
3:21the other. In layman's terms, hardness
3:23really just means scratchability.
3:25Diamond being the least scratchable gem
3:27out there and talc being so scratchable
3:29you can do it with your fingernail. Any
3:31stone that's higher on the Mohs scale
3:33can scratch any softer stone on the same
3:35scale. A diamond can scratch both quartz
3:38and jade. A quartz can scratch jade, but
3:40jade can't scratch quartz or diamond and
3:42quartz can't scratch diamond. Wow, that
3:45felt like a word problem, but you get
3:46what I mean. So, let's get back to the
3:49proverbial hammer and say it has a
3:50hardness of five or six. That hammer
3:53isn't scratching anything, but it could
3:55certainly shatter the diamond because of
3:57its low tenacity or resistance to blows.
4:00On the tenacity scale, these stones rank
4:02in the opposite direction. Jade has an
4:05extremely tough tenacity, quartz has a
4:07moderately tough tenacity, and diamonds
4:09are comparatively brittle. This evens
4:12out the playing field a bit. One could
4:14argue that since most people aren't
4:15hammering their gemstones and scratching
4:17is a far more likely hazard to
4:19encounter, diamond still may have the
4:21strategic edge. But if our friends jade
4:24and quartz decide to tag in Mr. Hammer,
4:27then diamond better watch his pavilion.
4:30Which gem do you think would come out on
4:32top? Is this the most expensive fight
4:35between inanimate objects you've ever
4:37imagined? Let us know down in the
4:38comments and don't forget to like and
4:40subscribe. For more information on
4:42hardness and tenacity, check out the
4:44links below. Thanks for watching.
The Most Essential Gem Tools You Should Own
Gemstones · 5:51 · 106 791 views
Наталья: «тут вообще весь канал интересный, можно прям всмотреться»
Transcript (162 lines) — клик по тайм-коду открывает YouTube на нужной секунде
0:00if you're a budding rockhound or maybe
0:01even looking to get into a career in
0:03gemology then you've clicked on the
0:04Right video today we're going to discuss
0:06the most essential gemological tools
0:08that every beginner should own our first
0:11essential gem tool is a small flashlight
0:13called a pen light requiring only one
0:16AAA Battery it's great for on the go and
0:18it serves many purposes you can tell
0:20whether a stone is truly opaque or has a
0:23little transparency which is huge when
0:25trying to determine the identity of the
0:26stone it can tell you if a stone has a
0:28color change or a slight color shift by
0:30changing the lighting temperature with
0:32the flashlight
0:33it also works well with other tools
0:35which we'll get into in a moment imagine
0:37all the old Alchemists doing this stuff
0:39by candlelight and then imagine what
0:41they could have done with a flashlight
0:42but alas the electric hand flashlight
0:45was not invented until the 1890s
0:47our next two tools look very similar but
0:50they do very different things let's
0:52start with the Chelsea color filter
0:54gemstones remove certain wavelengths of
0:56color from the white light entering them
0:58and we can then use color filters to
1:00remove other wavelengths passing out of
1:02the gem the color observed through this
1:04filter can help you differentiate
1:05between materials of a similar body
1:07color it was developed in 1934 with the
1:10purpose of helping gemologists
1:12differentiate between natural emerald
1:13and other green gems such as green
1:15sapphire tourmaline peridot and
1:17simulants like Green Glass but how does
1:20it work
1:21a Chelsea filter is a dichromatic
1:24Optical filter that means only two
1:26wavelengths of light can pass through
1:27deep red wavelengths around 690
1:30nanometers and yellow green wavelengths
1:32around 570 nanometers Emerald is one of
1:35the few green stones that transmits a
1:37good portion of the deep red part of the
1:39spectrum and absorbs a large part of the
1:41orange yellow this means that when
1:44viewed through the Chelsea filter many
1:45emeralds will appear red or reddish pink
1:48due to their chromium content imitators
1:50like Green Glass and composite Stones
1:52like suede Emerald will simply appear
1:54green next is the London dicroscope you
1:57may notice it looks a lot like the
1:59Chelsea filter but with a few key
2:01differences namely London dicroscope
2:04plastered on the side but if you look a
2:06little closer it has a polarizing filter
2:08not a colored one what is that you ask
2:10let me explain
2:12when you view a colored doubly
2:14refractive material what you're seeing
2:16is a mix of two or three polarized
2:18vibration directions the stone may
2:21appear a slightly different color from a
2:23different angle called pleochroism many
2:25pleochroic materials absorb light waves
2:28differently within different vibration
2:29directions throughout its crystalline
2:31structure the dicroscope has two
2:33polarizing filters at 90 degrees to each
2:36other allowing you to look at a gem and
2:38determine if it's pleochroic and
2:39isolating the different colors upon a
2:41rotation of the stone now we're on to
2:44one of the most useful tools that should
2:45be included in every budding gemologist
2:47kit The Humble tweezers tweezers have
2:50been around for a long time and are
2:52known to have been used in pre-dynastic
2:54Egypt now there are a lot of different
2:57kinds of gemological tweezers there are
2:59diamond tweezers bead tweezers silicon
3:01tipped tweezers for extremely soft gems
3:04cross lock tweezers and four prong
3:06tweezers just to name a few for the
3:08purposes of this video we recommend
3:09starting with your basic stainless steel
3:11tweezer most basic tweezers will be
3:14about six to six and a half inches in
3:15length they're textured at the tip to
3:18help you grip the stone by its girdle
3:19now you don't have to squeeze very
3:21tightly minimal pressure around the
3:22girdle of the stone will be enough to
3:24let you hold it securely for viewing
3:26once you're comfortable with them you'll
3:28wonder how you ever lived without them a
3:30gem in tweezers can easily be held under
3:32bright light for observing internal and
3:34external characteristics which is
3:36essential for identifying gems you can
3:39use them for other tests like dipping a
3:40stone into water to see if it's a
3:42composite or for holding it under a UV
3:44light to see if there's a reaction plus
3:46it's just handy in keeping fingerprints
3:48and oils from your skin off of a stone
3:50which can be mistaken for inclusions our
3:53final tool may be the single most
3:55important one a Jeweler's loop the loop
3:58may have been invented thousands of
4:00years ago it's been said that Egyptians
4:02used chips of Crystal or natural
4:04obsidian glass to better view small
4:06objects in Rome Emperor Nero was said to
4:09have peered through gemstones at actors
4:11on a distant stage however the first
4:13magnifier constructed for a scientific
4:15purpose is believed to have been
4:16designed by the English philosopher
4:18Roger Bacon in the year 1250. a 10 times
4:22Loop is normally a combination of two or
4:24more components one a doublet lens that
4:27reduces the Distortion seen in a single
4:29lens and two a triplet lens that
4:31eliminates color fringes prevents
4:33Distortion and has a bit of a larger
4:34working distance
4:36so how do you choose a good Loop you can
4:39look for Loops described as a chromatic
4:41no color fringes and a planatic no
4:43distortion
4:44you can check for the absence of color
4:46fringes and a lack of distortion by
4:48viewing a piece of white graph paper in
4:50a strong light the regularity of the
4:53lines through the lenses field of view
4:54will give you an indication of quality
4:56remember to choose a loop with a plain
4:58polished metal or black casing fancier
5:01colored Loops could reflect some of the
5:03color into your stone which can muddle
5:05your observations a little bit well guys
5:07we hope this was a good lesson in how to
5:09start your very own gemological toolkit
5:11as you get better with these tools you
5:13can start to explore more advanced ones
5:15like the spectroscope or the polariscope
5:17tell us what other gemological tools
5:19would you like to know more about you
5:21can also visit gemstones.com where we
5:23have a wide range of articles about gems
5:25and how to identify them and as always
5:27don't forget to like And subscribe and
5:29ring that Bell so you don't miss out on
5:31future episodes thanks for watching
5:44foreign

🔬 Сквозная тема · Сертификация и проверка камней

Эта тема проходит через все выпуски S1. Наталья выделила её как один из ключевых блоков — материал полезен зрителю независимо от конкретного камня.

📖
Что должно быть в сертификате3 ключевых поля: Species (минерал), Origin (месторождение) и Treatment (облагораживание). Без них сертификат — бумажка.
🏷️
Маркетинговые терминыPigeon Blood (рубин-эталон), Crimson Red (Gübelin, для камней без флуоресценции), Vibrant, Flower Royal Blue (GRS, для сапфиров) — за каждым термином стоит конкретный диапазон цвета и обработки.
🔍
Как проверить сертификатЗабить номер на сайте лаборатории (GRS/SSEF/GIA/Gübelin) → сверить символ-в-символ с фоткой. Фото камня на сайте должно совпадать с тем, что у вас в руках.
💎
Бриллианты: лазерный номер на рундистеGIA ставит номер сертификата лазером на рундист (ободок) бриллианта. Сверяется под микроскопом или лупой.
⚠️
Ловушка выращенных камнейСовременная синтетика настолько хороша, что на неё можно нанести номер реального сертификата. Защита — двойная проверка (перед покупкой + у себя в руках) и лабораторный retest. Без лаборатории отличить натуральный от выращенного бриллианта невозможно.
🔗
Лаборатории мираGRS (Lucerne/Bangkok/NY), SSEF (Basel), Gübelin (Lucerne), GIA (Carlsbad), AGL (NY). Каждая закупает свои образцы и имеет свой стандарт именования цветов. Один и тот же камень у разных лабораторий получит разные имена.

🎙️ Zoom-встреча 2026-04-21 · о чём говорили

Язык: ruДлительность: 42:00Реплик: 245Наталья: 25 минРоман: 9 мин

Outline по тайм-кодам

0:00
Корунды: теорияСапфир и рубин — это один минерал (корунд), разный цвет даёт Cr vs Fe+Ti. Фэнси-сапфир, облагораживание (нагрев — ок, glass-filling — единственное, что лаборатории хейтят).
0:47
Эпохи месторождений3 типа корундов: 5 / 100 / 500 млн лет. Кашмирское и Бирманское месторождения закрыты — поэтому камни ценятся сильнее.
2:17
Легенды и исторические кейсыБирманские воины зашивали рубины под кожу; Кохинор — спорный камень между Британией и Индией; королевские украшения — дополнительный контент.
3:17
Insider-рынок БирмыБирманские рубины растут в цене: политика + капитал-ограничения → дилеры скупают камни обратно в Бирму из Гонконга/Бангкока. Когда топ-камни кончаются, следом подтягиваются мозамбикские, красная шпинель, и т.д.
5:30
Термины GRS/GübelinPigeon Blood, Crimson Red (Gübelin — для камней без флуоресценции), Vibrant, Flower Royal Blue — ключевые маркетинговые обозначения в сертификатах.
9:00
Glass-filled и брендыHarry Winston продаёт гретые камни (но без заполнения стеклом); в массовых украшениях — нормально, в high-jewellery — нет.
9:08
Кабошоны и звёздчатыеЗвёздчатые сапфиры/рубины — отдельная история, отдельный выпуск (шёлк, рутил, эффект шатоэнси).
9:12
ГранатыДемантоид (русский, с конским хвостом, фаер сильнее бриллианта), спессартин (оранжевый), цаворит (зелёный — легенда про Бриджеса и быка в Кении).
13:40
ШпинелиКобальтовая (Вьетнам, Люкьен), махенге (Танзания), чёрная (хит ювелирного ТВ), российская корона (думали рубин — оказалась шпинель). Price index резко растёт.
18:00
Падпараджа и мульти-сапфирыРозово-оранжевый сапфир, термины «рассвет» / «закат». Решено: 5-й выпуск может быть про падпараджу или отдельный про цветные сапфиры.
18:00
Изумруд и другие бериллыИзумруд обсуждается отдельно. Аквамарин Santa Maria, biksbit — остальные бериллы можно в одно видео.
18:13
СертификатыGRS, лаборатории, как читать: Flower Royal Blue, Crimson Red, Vibrant, виды облагораживания.
28:00
Проверка сертификатаСверять номер на сайте лаборатории. Для бриллиантов — лазерный номер на рундисте. Выращенные камни могут иметь «поддельный» номер — нужна повторная проверка.
33:20
Продакшн-логистикаСтудия в Дубае/Москве, Osmo Pocket, разрешения на съёмку в Кремле. Наталья может привезти реквизит-камни, показать украшения. Частные заказы — private.
35:00
Ведущие-геммологи«Девушки с ювелирного ТВ» (JTV-style) — потенциальные эксперты на камеру. Сильны в физ-инфе, месторождениях, легендах. Слабы в инвестиционной и бизнес-части — это USP Романа.
Полный транскрипт встречи — в локальной версии брифа и в YTUVI_meeting_2026-04-21.md. На публичной странице оставлены только outline и короткие тезисы по камням (см. секции выше).